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Part 1 of 3 - Counted Cross Stitch Frequently Asked Questions  version 1.03

Again, many thanks to those people who sent information for this version of the
FAQ.

Changes from version 1.02 to version 1.03:
  ~ Added section "3.4  Finding Charts"
  ~ Added section "10.6 National Counted Cross Stitch Show"
  ~ Additions or updates to the lists of mail order suppliers, magazines and
    software.

Kathy

==============================================================================

                             COUNTED CROSS STITCH
                          Frequently Asked Questions

                              For the Internet's
                              Usenet News Group

                             rec.crafts.textiles


                                 Version 1.03
                                July 17, 1994


                               Kathleen M. Dyer
                               [e-mail]

==============================================================================


About This FAQ

 1.  Introduction

 2.  A Project From Start to Finish
     2.1  Selecting the Fabric - Aida vs. Linen
     2.2  Selecting the Thread/Fiber
     2.3  Preparing the Fabric
     2.4  Setting the Floss Color
     2.5  Hoop or Hand?
     2.6  Making the X
     2.7  Fractional Stitches
     2.8  Stitching On Linens and Evenweaves
     2.9  Where to Start Stitching
     2.10  Number of Strands
     2.11  The "Right" End of the Floss
     2.12  Cutting the Floss
     2.13  How to Start the Thread
              Running Under
              Loop Method
              Knotless Waste Knot
              Waste Knot
     2.14  Carrying Threads Over
     2.15  How to Keep the Thread From Twisting and Knotting
     2.16  How to End the Thread
     2.17  Using Variegated Floss
     2.18  Where Am I?
     2.19  Backstitching
     2.20  Beads
     2.21  Signing and Dating
     2.22  Cleaning and Storing
     2.23  Mounting, Matting and Framing

 3.  Finding Supplies
     3.1  Ordering Supplies By Mail and Phone
     3.2  Crafts Information Service
     3.3  Needlework Stores
     3.4  Finding Charts

 4.  Books, Magazines and Videotapes
     4.1  Magazines
     4.2  Magazine Index
     4.3  Books and Pamphlets
     4.4  Videotapes

 5.  Floss and Fibers
     5.1  Fibers to Use Other Than Floss
     5.2  Floss Conversion Chart

 6.  Fabrics
     6.1  Silk Gauze
     6.2  Types of Evenweaves
             Cottons & Blends
             Linens & Blends
             Miscellaneous Blends

 7.  Equipment
     7.1  Needles
             Needle Size
             Needle Finish
     7.2  Needle Control
     7.3  Hoops, Scroll Bars and Such
             Stands
             Hoops
             Scroll Bars
             Q-Snaps
             Stretcher Bars
     7.4  Magnifiers and Lamps

 8.  Creating Your Own Charts
     8.1  From a Photo - Do It Yourself
     8.2  From a Photo - Mail It Off
     8.3  Use a Computer - Original Design or From a Photo

 9.  Computers and Cross Stitch
     9.1  Discussion Groups and BBS's
     9.2  Computer Software For Cross Stitch

10.  Activities and Events
     10.1  International Cross Stitch Round Robin
     10.2  The Spirit of Cross Stitch Festival
     10.3  The Creative Festival
     10.4  I Love Needlework Fair
     10.5  EGA - The Embroiderer's Guild of America
     10.6  National Counted Cross Stitch Show

11.  Entering Competitions

12.  Selling Your Work
     12.1  General Comments
     12.2  Craft Business Mailing List

13.  Other Stitching Techniques
     13.1  Assisi Work
     13.2  Blackwork
     13.3  Counted Thread Work
     13.4  Drawn Thread Work
     13.5  Duplicate Stitch
     13.6  Hardanger Embroidery
     13.7  Pulled Thread Work
     13.8  Shadow Embroidery
     13.9  Waste Canvas



==============================================================================

                                About This FAQ

==============================================================================


Welcome to the "Counted Cross Stitch Frequently Asked Questions" document for
the Usenet news group rec.crafts.textiles on the Internet.

This FAQ is posted monthly to rec.crafts.textiles.  Plans are underway to post
it to news.answers, which would also cause it to be archived at several sites.
If these plans succeed, information on how to retrieve the FAQ will be
included here.

The hints and tips contained here have been collected from the many people who
have been kind enough to share their wisdom with the net.  In fact, this is
an attempt to represent the collective wisdom of the stitchers who post to
rec.crafts.textiles.

Thanks to the folks who have given permission for their messages and postings
to be quoted directly.  The names are given where quoted.

Special thanks to those people who read the draft of this document for their
time, care and suggestions--

   [e-mail] (Lisa Balbes)
   [e-mail] (Caren B Pelletier)
   [e-mail] (Heather Keal)
   [e-mail] (Gillian Cannon)
   [e-mail] (Amelia J. Scott-Piner)
   [e-mail] (Janice Liedl)
   [e-mail] (Liz Bell)
   [e-mail] (Mary Otto)
   [e-mail] (Patty Andersen)
   [e-mail] (Marina Salume)
   [e-mail] (Randy Freeman)
   [e-mail] (Stella Nemeth)


NOTE-- This Counted Cross Stitch FAQ is maintained separately from the other
rec.crafts.textiles FAQs posted monthly by Lara Allen ([e-mail])
(previously posted by Anne Louise [e-mail]).

Please send comments and corrections to me.

        Kathleen M. Dyer
            [e-mail] (home, preferred address)
            [e-mail]   (work, if the other address bounces)


==============================================================================

                              1.  Introduction

==============================================================================


Counted cross stitch has few, if any, rules.  The main one is to enjoy
yourself.  You may follow or ignore any of the tips listed in this FAQ and
still be a "real" cross stitcher.

The first part of this document is a tutorial.  The rest is essentially a
collection of lists--catalogs, events, floss conversion, etc.

Any commercial products or services are listed as a courtesy to the reader.
No endorsement or value judgement is expressed or implied.

==============================================================================

                     2.  A Project From Start to Finish

==============================================================================


-------------------------------------------
2.1  Selecting the Fabric - Aida vs. Linen
-------------------------------------------


Generally, people first learn to do counted cross stitch on aida and learn to
stitch on linen as they become more experienced.  Judging by comments in
rec.crafts.textiles, most stitchers who know how to work on linen wouldn't go
back to aida under any condition.  As always though, this is a matter of
personal preference.  Some very experienced stitchers prefer aida.

First, the traditional rule--stitch on aida using a hoop and stitch on linen
"in the hand".  In actual practice, people do whatever works best for them.
See section "2.5 Hoop or Hand?" for a discussion of the "in-the-hand vs.
in-a-hoop" debate.  See section "7.3 Hoops, Scroll Bars and Such" for more
information on the equipment itself.

Linen isn't as stiff as aida.  This can be a plus or minus, depending on your
own preferences.  The difference in stiffness isn't usually a factor if the
fabric is worked in scroll bars or stretcher bars.

Aida is worked with one X per square, while linen is generally worked over two
threads.  This means that a 28 count linen produces the same size picture as a
14 count aida.  See section "2.8 Stitching On Linens and Evenweaves" for a
more detailed explanation of stitching on linen.

Fractional stitches (1/4 and 3/4) can be much easier to do on linen.  On aida,
the needle needs to punch through the middle of the little square in order to
complete the stitch.  This can made somewhat easier by using a small sized
needle (#26).  No "punching through" is needed on linen, as the needle simply
goes between the two threads.  See section "2.7 Fractional Stitches" for a
more detailed explanation of fractional stitches.

Some people find it easier to see the holes on linen while stitching, others
find the aida easier.

The "look" of the cloth in the background can also be a consideration when
selecting a fabric.  Both texture and color should be considered.

Aida is generally less expensive.  Whether you choose to work on aida or on
linen, always buy the best quality cloth you can afford.  The amount of time
invested in a cross stitch project can be quite large, and is far more
valuable than a small savings up front.  Also make sure to know the fiber
content and if the fabric requires any special care.  See section "6.2  Types
of Evenweaves" for information on fiber content.

An possible source of high quality but inexpensive linen is at antique shops.
You may be able to find cloth with a hand tatted or hand crocheted edge,
allowing you to do a joint project with someone who isn't alive today.


--------------------------------
2.2  Selecting the Thread/Fiber
--------------------------------


Commercial charts suggest which type and color of thread to use.  Kits even
supply the thread for you.  However, there are times when you want to select
the thread yourself.

Situation:  The floss supplied in a kit is of poor quality.
   If you are lucky, the chart supplied with the kit lists color numbers and
   a brand name.  This doesn't happen very often, at least with kits that
   supply ugly floss.  If there is no list, try to get a color card for one of
   the big-name brands of floss such as DMC or Anchor.  Look for one which
   includes thread samples.  Match the colors from the kit with the colors on
   the card as carefully as you can.  Do it in natural light, if possible.
   Write down the numbers of the colors you need on the chart next to the
   correct symbol.  Buy whatever floss you don't have on hand and start
   stitching!  If you already started the picture with the old floss, rip it
   out or get new cloth and START OVER.  If you can't find a color card, take
   the bad floss with you to your local craft store and do the matching there.
   Be careful, because the lighting in most stores can make the colors look
   wrong.

Situation:  You created the chart yourself.
   If you are experienced enough to create your own chart, you are probably
   experienced enough to select fibers.  Consider using the many new types of
   fibers which are now available, such as metallics and hand painted silks.
   See section "5.1 Fibers to Use Other Than Floss" for some hints.
   Always keep in mind the final use of whatever you are stitching.  For
   example, don't use a non-colorfast silk for a baby's bib.

Situation:  You want to use a different brand of floss than suggested.
   Some charts supply color number information for two or three manufacturers'
   floss.  If not, try to find a floss conversion chart.  Commercial ones are
   available.  Even better, there is a "DMC-Anchor-J&P Coats" conversion chart
   in this FAQ.  Look for section "5.2 Floss Conversion Chart."

Situation:  You want a different texture or finish.
   Consider using the many new types of fibers which are now available, such
   as metallics and hand painted silks.  See section "5.1 Fibers to Use Other
   Than Floss" for some hints.
   Always keep in mind the final use of whatever you are stitching.  For
   example, don't use a non-colorfast silk for a baby's bib.

Situation:  You want to use different colors than suggested.
   If it is a geometric design or a simple picture with no shading, replace
   the colors anyway you like.  More care must be taken for complex pictures.
   Compare the values of the old set of colors and the new set to make sure
   they are the same.  You can do this by looking at the threads through red
   glass or cellophane, or by photocopying them in black-and-white.


--------------------------
2.3  Preparing the Fabric
--------------------------


The following suggestions are quite conservative and cautious.  It seems
safest to list many things that a stitcher might want to be aware of.  You are
then free to use or ignore whatever you choose.

Trim off any selvage edges.

Cut the fabric to size for the project.  Allow an extra 3"-4" on _each_ edge.

Pre-rinse very dark or very red fabrics to make sure the color will not run.
Rinse until the water is clear.

If there are folds, make sure they will come out.  Rinse and/or press the
fabric.

Prepare the edges to keep them from fraying.  Some of the options:
   ~ Use a sewing machine to do a zigzag stitch.
   ~ Use a serger to serge the edges.
   ~ Fold the edge of the cloth over and baste it by hand.
   ~ Do a whipstitch by hand, to overcast the edges.
   ~ Use Fraycheck or masking tape, but then allow another half inch (1/2")
     all the way around so you can cut off the chemically tainted fabric when
     you are through stitching.  Chemicals of any sort may cause deterioration
     years later.


-----------------------------
2.4  Setting the Floss Color
-----------------------------

Floss is much more colorfast than it used to be, but some people prefer to be
very cautious when using black or dark colors in heirloom quality projects.
Below are a couple of postings about the topic.

From: [e-mail] (Gillian Cannon)...
   I take my blacks and dark reds, purples, etc., and put rubber bands where
   the paper bands are, and shake the skein in a glass of water that I've put
   a quarter of a teaspoon of white vinegar or salt in so I can set the
   colors.  Rinse in clear water after shaking in the mixture until it runs
   clear, then I lay the skein (still in the rubber band wrapping) on top of a
   thick terry towel, then roll and press to remove the extra water.  I then
   just lay it on a surface until it dries.  It's really easy and eliminates a
   lot of problems.

From: [e-mail] (mary.rita.otto)...
   ...You want to set the color on the floss before you start the piece.  This
   is only necessary for some of the colors - most will not bleed. But here is
   the procedure.

   Take the floss out of the skein wrappers.  Wet it with cool water.  Lay it
   on a white paper towel to dry.  If it is going to bleed/run that will be
   evident on the paper towel.  If it does show signs of running, then rinse
   it with cool running water until the running stops and the paper towel it
   is set on shows no further signs of color.

   Soak the rinsed floss in 1 QT cool water and 1/4 cup white vinegar. Let it
   soak for about 20 minutes.  Rinse again with cool water and dry on a paper
   towel.

   If you have a finished piece you should exercise caution when first washing
   the piece.  Rinse the piece with clear water and watch for signs of
   running.  If a color does run, continue to rinse the piece in cool running
   water until the bleeding stops and the water runs clear.

   In most cases, it is not necessary to use the vinegar water soak. I
   consulted several expert stitchers and teachers on this, and they all
   admitted that they think the soaking is a waste of time, and just deal with
   the bleeding with the cool water rinse at wash time.  The quality of dyes
   used currently is very good, and colors running is very uncommon.

   I only do a rinse and soak for heirloom quality work using intense red
   colors (like DMC 666).  I've never had a problem with other colors, or a
   serious problem with the red, either.  But that may vary with the quality
   of the local water supply.


-------------------
2.5  Hoop or Hand?
-------------------


First, the traditional rule--stitch on aida using a hoop and stitch on linen
"in the hand".  In actual practice, people do whatever works best for them.
Most who like their fabric taut _do_ tend to avoid hoops in favor of scroll
bars or stretcher bars when working on linen, as hoops may damage the fabric
or leave marks.  See section "7.3 Hoops, Scroll Bars and Such" for more
information on the equipment itself.  See section "2.8 Stitching On Linens and
Evenweaves" for a more detailed explanation of stitching on linen.

For the purpose of this discussion, let's use the word "bars" to refer to all
those things which can be used to hold the fabric taut--hoops, stretcher bars,
scroll bars and Q-Snaps.

Some people find it easier to control the tension of their thread with one
method, some find it easier with the other.  The most important thing to
remember is to do what works best for you.

Advantages and Disadvantages of "in the hand":

   ~ Stitching can be done with the sewing method, which requires less motion
     on the part of the stitcher than the stab method.  The sewing method can
     be much faster.

   ~ No worries about squashing existing stitches or leaving hoop marks.

   ~ The project is much easier to transport without the weight and bulk of
     bars.

   ~ Some people like the feel of the fabric in their hand.  It's part of
     the enjoyment.

   ~ Some people have trouble controlling fabric and floss without bars.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Bars:

   ~ Can keep the fabric taut, for those who prefer this.  They can be used
     with the fabric loose, for those who like the sewing method.

   ~ More of the fabric is immediately visible than if it were draped over a
     hand.

   ~ Most bars can be used with lap stands or floor stands.  The stands allow
     "two handed stitching", where one hand is kept above and one hand below
     the project.  Good quality stands are like fine furniture, and keep the
     current project on display.

   ~ People who have trouble holding projects for long periods of time also
     may find stands useful--they help avoid or reduce effects from tendonitis,
     arthritis and cramping.

   ~ Hoops can distort existing stitches and leave marks on the fabric.  These
     problems can be avoided by using stretcher bars, scroll bars and Q-Snaps.


------------------
2.6  Making the X
------------------

One of the few rules in counted cross stitch is that all the stitches should
go in the same direction.  It doesn't matter if the bottom half goes "/" and
the top goes "\", or vice versa.  Just make sure that _every_ stitch in the
project is done the same way.  (And to be perfectly honest, there are
exceptions to this rule, such as 3/4 stitches.)

The direction a person first learns to stitch seems to be a regional thing.
The only reason it _might_ be of importance is if you choose to do a very
complex chart from another country.  Some complex charts with many fractional
stitches or other embroidery stitches exhibit a subtle bias, assuming that the
X's will be done a particular direction.

Stitchers who use the traditional method complete each X as they go:

      XXXXXXXX

Stitchers who use the Danish method do the bottom stitches first, and complete
the X's as they return:

      /////XXX

Many people use a mix of the two methods.  They may use the Danish method for
most stitches, but do the occasional isolated stitch as a complete X.  Another
school recommends doing rows with the Danish method and columns with the
traditional method.  This causes the thread on the back to make vertical
lines.

Apparently, some antique samplers which were done in the traditional method
survive today because the X's hold the fabric together.  The "one-X-at-a-time"
approach works well when stitching over one thread, rather than the usual two,
as it helps stop the thread from disappearing behind the fabric.

Many people find the Danish method to be faster, and to result in less
confusion about current location.

Choose a method which you like, preferably one which results in neat backs.
While a neat back isn't _required_ for a good looking front, it usually helps.


-------------------------
2.7  Fractional Stitches
-------------------------


Fractional stitches (1/4, 1/2 and 3/4) are simply cross stitches with missing
arms.  They are used to provide a rounded look to a picture (1/4 and 3/4), or
an airy look (1/2).

Fractional stitches (1/4 and 3/4) can be much easier to do on linen.  On aida,
the needle needs to punch through the middle of the little square in order to
complete the stitch.  This can made somewhat easier by using a small sized
needle (#26).  No "punching through" is needed on linen, as the needle simply
goes between the two threads.

A 1/4 stitch is done by coming up from one corner of the square and going down
in the center.

A 3/4 stitch is most often done by stitching the short arm first, like a
quarter stitch.  It is completed with a 1/2 stitch to make the other two arms.

Note that this is an exception to the rule that all stitches must go in the
same direction, as the long arm of the 3/4 stitch may go either "/" or "\".
There are some occasions where people choose to do the 1/2 stitch first and
anchor it down with the 1/4 stitch, in order to achieve a certain effect.

Frequently, a 1/4 stitch and a 3/4 stitch share a single square.  This means
that a decision is left up to the stitcher.  Which side is the 1/4 and which
the 3/4?

As in just about every other area, this is up to you.  Here are some different
methods.  Each provides its own distinct look.

   ~ If there is a backstitch dividing the two sides, stitch two 1/4 stitches
     and let the backstitch divide them.

   ~ Determine which side is in the foreground of the picture, and make that
     side the 3/4 stitch.  (An exception might be made for very small
     details.)  The backstitch, if any, can lie on top of or outside of the
     long arm.

   ~ If neither side is in the foreground, make the 1/4 stitch in whichever of
     the two colors "gets there" first.  Fill in the 3/4 stitch as you come by
     with the second color.

   ~ Make two 3/4 stitches.

Sometimes a pattern calls for an entire area to be filled with 1/2 stitches
rather than full cross stitches.  If there are no definite instructions, it is
up to you to decide which direction the 1/2 stitches should go--the same as
the bottom half of a full cross stitch or the same as the top half.  "Bottom"
half stitches are more intuitive for some people.  "Top" half stitches tend to
blend into the background more, which might be the effect you want.  Sometimes
the picture itself makes a direction obvious.  For example, 1/2 stitches used
to represent feathers in a wing should probably slant the way the feathers
themselves would.

----------------------------------------
2.8  Stitching on Linens and Evenweaves
----------------------------------------


People tend to use the terms "linen" and "evenweave" interchangeably in casual
discussions.  Evenweave fabrics are composed of linen, cotton, man-made fibers
and blends.  To save typing, I'll use "linen" below to mean both linen and
evenweave.

For a look at the "aida vs. linen" debate, see section "2.1 Selecting the
Fabric - Aida vs. Linen."  For information on the fiber content of
different fabrics, see section "6.2 Types of Evenweaves."

First, the traditional rule--stitch on aida using a hoop and stitch on linen
"in the hand".  In actual practice, people do whatever works best for them.
See section "2.5 Hoop or Hand?" for a discussion of the "in-the-hand vs.
in-a-hoop" debate.  See section "7.3 Hoops, Scroll Bars and Such" for more
information on the equipment itself.

Linen is generally worked "over two" threads.  This means that a 28 count
linen produces the same size picture as a 14 count aida.

Experienced stitchers of linen recommend starting next to a vertical thread.
This is easier to explain using a picture.

If you start your X's like "/", then...


             | |      | | Y
        --------------| |---
        --------------| |---
             | |      | |
             | |      | |
             | |      | |     Where X means start here!
             | |      | |
             | |      | |
        -----| |------------
        -----| |------------
           X | |      | |
             | |      | |

                               (ASCII art adapted from a post by
                                [e-mail] (Janice Liedl))


Come up at X and go down at Y (or vice versa).  If you start your X's the
other way, like "\", then...


           X | |      | |
        -----| |------------
        -----| |------------
             | |      | |
             | |      | |
             | |      | |
             | |      | |
             | |      | |
        --------------| |---
        --------------| |---
             | |      | | Y
             | |      | |


Reasons for starting next to a vertical thread:

   ~ Starting next to a vertical thread makes it easy to tell when you have
     mistakenly gone over 1 or 3 threads.

   ~ The hole next to a vertical thread is slightly larger.

   ~ Stitches started next to horizontal threads sometimes don't look as nice,
     and can roll under.

Many people on rec.crafts.textiles have recommended 32-count Belfast linen as
a good fabric for a beginner.  It has a nice weave density.


------------------------------
2.9  Where to Start Stitching
------------------------------


You're finally ready to make that first stitch on a new piece of fabric.
What's the right location in which to start?  The center of the cloth?  The
upper left?  The lower right?

It's up to you.  Here are some different schools of thought.

   ~ Let the design itself determine the starting location.  Each design has
     its own best place to start.

   ~ Start in the middle.  It makes it easy to be sure everything is centered.
     The center of the design is often more interesting to work on.

   ~ The starting location depends on the direction you stitch.  Try to have
     your needle come up through the hole with the fewest existing stitches
     and down through the hole with the most.  For example, someone who
     stitches like this:

            //////XXXX

     should start at the upper left corner of the design.

            XXXXXXXXXX
            //////XXXX


------------------------
2.10  Number of Strands
------------------------


The number of strands of floss to use is, as with most of counted cross
stitch, open to individual interpretation.  Traditionally, a certain amount of
the background cloth should be visible.  However, some people prefer a full,
covered look.  A very common choice is to use two strands when working on 14
or 18 count cloth.  If in doubt, try a few stitches on a scrap of the fabric
you want to use, to see if the "look" is what you want.


-----------------------------------
2.11  The "Right" End of the Floss
-----------------------------------


You may have read posts which talked about "the right end," "direction of the
thread," or "Z-twist and S-twist."  First let's talk about what it means, then
we'll look at why you should (or shouldn't) care.

From: [e-mail] (Noeline McCaughan)...

   Just to make things a little clearer -"Z" and "S" are used to describe the
   twist in a yarn - any yarn regardless of what fibre it is spun from. Just
   take a piece of thick yarn and hold it up in front of your eyes. If the
   twist goes from top right to bottom left it is called "Z" (the slant of the
   twist equaling the slant of the downstroke in the letter). If it slopes
   from top left to right bottom it is of course an "S".


To find the right end for a six-strand length of floss:

   ~ The end that comes out of the skein is the right end.

   ~ If the floss is already cut, hold the two ends in one hand, between the
     thumb and forefinger. Allow about one half inch from each end to stick
     up.  Now tap lightly down onto both ends at once with your other
     forefinger.  The end that spreads more, or "blossoms" is the "right" end.

To find the right end for a single strand of floss, hold it up and run it
between your thumb and forefinger.  The direction that feels smoother is the
right direction, and the top is the right end.

Some people find it easier to separate a strand when it is removed from the
right end.  They have less problem with tangling.

So, now you know how to find it.  Why should you?  Unfortunately, this is one
of the few topics in counted cross stitch that people tend to get religious
about.  Even the professionals don't agree.

The two main schools of thought:

   ~ The needle should be threaded with the right end.  The stitches lie
     better, and knots are less likely to happen.  It is bad form to stitch
     without paying attention to thread direction.

   ~ If it takes a magnifying glass to see the difference in the stitches,
     keeping track of the right end of the thread is a waste of time.
     Besides, the loop method of starting stitches (where by definition one
     strand is the right way and one the wrong) can help keep the back of the
     picture neat.


------------------------
2.12  Cutting the Floss
------------------------


Floss should be cut about 18"-20" long, or twice that if the thread will be
doubled for the loop method.  Some people like to use one arm length when
doubling. See section "2.13 How to Start the Thread" for more information
about the loop method.

Metallics, or any fiber with a very rough surface, should be cut somewhat
shorter.  It helps prevent fraying.

Most people prefer to separate the floss into individual strands and then
recombine them.  There is less twisting and knotting, and the stitches lie
flatter.  To separate a thread from the others, hold onto the top end of the
thread between your thumb and forefinger.  Pull down on it with the other
thumb and forefinger, taking all the other threads with you. It looks like a
knot will form. Have faith. Everything comes out just fine.


------------------------------
2.13  How to Start the Thread
------------------------------


And now for a strong suggestion--DO NOT KNOT THE THREAD.  An exception _might_
be made for cross stitch on clothing, towels and the like.

  ~ Knots can create lumps and bumps on the front when the picture is mounted.

  ~ Knots can catch the floss.

  ~ Knots can lead to uneven thread tension and distorted fabric.

  ~ Knots can pop through to the front, especially on a loosely woven fabric.

  ~ Knots are harder to undo if you make a mistake.

  ~ Knots make the back look messy.  A good general rule is that a neat back
    means a better looking front.

So, what is it you _should_ do?  There are several methods listed below.  Many
people use more than one, letting the circumstances determine their selection.

As a side note, see the section "7.1 Needles" for information on what size and
type of needle to use.


Running Under
-------------

Run the thread under 4 or 5 of the stitches on the back, if they are right
next to where you want to start.  You may choose to whip stitch around the
second or third stitch as you are running under.  This helps to lock the
thread in.

Sometimes dark colors show through when woven under lighter colors.  Check to
make sure this isn't happening.

A variation--if you stitch in a manner that leaves vertical lines on the back,
try whip stitching or weaving up (or down) a few of these vertical stitches.
This technique makes for a very neat looking back.


Loop Method
-----------

The loop method only works for even numbers of strands.

For two strands, start with one long strand about 36"-40" long.  Fold it in
half.  Thread the needle so the two ends are the tail, near the needle, and
the "loop" is the end farthest from the needle.  Start the stitch with the
loop end dangling a little bit below the cloth.  When the needle comes back
down to the underside, run it between the loop and the cloth, and pull tight
(gently).


Knotless Waste Knot
-------------------

Start the thread from the top side, an inch or two from where you want to
begin stitching.  Leave a tail of thread on the top side.  When you have
completed some stitches, pull the tail to the back side.  Run it under the new
stitches.


Waste Knot
----------

This is similar to the knotless waste knot described above.  One difference is
that the tail on the front is knotted, to act as an anchor.  It should be
started farther away from the stitching point, as the tail-and-knot on the
front is cut away when the stitches are completed.  The remaining tail on the
back is run under the new stitches.

For both the waste knot and knotless waste knot, careful placement of the
"knot" will cause the tail on the back to be covered as you stitch.


----------------------------
2.14  Carrying Threads Over
----------------------------


You can carry thread over if there is no stitching between two areas of the
design, but only for short distances.  This means 3 or 4 squares on aida, or 4
threads on linen.

The thread can be carried farther if the region between the two areas has been
(or will be) filled in with other stitches.  How far?  This depends on the
relative darkness of the colors.  The carried thread should be woven under the
existing stitches, but sometimes dark colors show through when woven under
lighter colors.  Check to make sure this isn't happening.  Even under the best
conditions, you probably shouldn't carry the thread more than a distance of 5
or 6 stitches.

Try to plan your work so that it isn't necessary to travel very far to do the
next stitch.


--------------------------------------------------------
2.15  How to Keep the Thread From Twisting and Knotting
--------------------------------------------------------


Separate the floss into individual strands and then recombine them.  There is
less twisting and knotting, and the stitches lie flatter.  To separate a
thread from the others, hold onto the top end of the thread between your thumb
and forefinger.  Pull down on it with the other thumb and forefinger, taking
all the other threads with you. It looks like a knot will form.  Have faith.
Everything comes out just fine.

Run each separated strand of floss over a damp sponge just before using it.
This makes the floss lie much smoother and flatter.  Remember, some fibers,
such as silk, should not be dampened.

If you know which direction you tend to twist the needle, give it a little
bit of a twist the opposite direction after each stitch.

Try threading the needle with the "right" end of the floss.  See section "2.11
The Right End of the Floss" for more information.

Let the thread dangle every so often and untwist it.

If you use the stab method, rather than the sewing method...
On the top half of the cross stitch, pull the needle and thread through to the
front to start the stitch in the usual manner. Then put the tip of the needle
between the two threads right where they come through the fabric so that the
needle is pointing in the direction it needs to go to complete the stitch, and
take it over to finish the stitch.


      Where the needle is going to go to complete the stitch.
            |
            |
           \|/

            o         //
                     //
                    //     <--- first half stitch
                   //
                  //
                 //
                //
               //
              //     \     <--- needle tip
             //       \
            //         \---------
                      / \        \
                     /   \       |     <--- thread
                    |     \      |
                    |      \     |
                    |       \    |
                    |        O    \
                    |        ||    \
                    |        ||     \
                     \       ||      \-----------\
                      ---------------------------\
                             ||                  ||
                             ||                  ||
                             ||                  ||
                              \\----------------//
                                ----------------



----------------------------
2.16  How to End the Thread
----------------------------


Not surprisingly, the techniques for ending the thread resemble those for
starting the thread.

First, the same strong suggestion--DO NOT KNOT THE THREAD.  An exception
_might_ be made for cross stitch on clothing, towels and the like.

One good method is to run the thread under 4 or 5 of the stitches on the back.

You may choose to whip stitch around one of the stitches as you are running
under.  This helps to lock the thread in.

Sometimes dark colors show through when woven under lighter colors.  Check to
make sure this isn't happening.

If you stitch in a manner that leaves vertical lines on the back, try whip
stitching or weaving up (or down) a few of these vertical stitches.  This
technique makes for a very neat looking back.


-----------------------------
2.17  Using Variegated Floss
-----------------------------


Variegated floss is used to create interesting effects and one-of-a-kind
pictures.  While you are always free to do as the spirit takes you, there are
some more organized approaches.  The following is one method, but is by no
means the only one.  For information on another, read DMC's pamphlet #15235
"Cross Stitch with Variegated Floss".

Remove the floss from the skein and wind it lengthwise around a yardstick.
Those of you living in countries on the metric system might have to saw a few
centimeters off the end of a meter stick.  Carefully cut the floss at the
middle and at each end, to give you four groups of floss.  Two groups should
be lighter and two should be darker, overall.  Combine the two lighter groups
together and consider them to be one group.  Do the same with the two darker
groups.  As you stitch the design, complete each X as you go.  Do not use the
Danish method.


------------------
2.18  Where Am I?
------------------


There are many approaches to keeping track of location.  Find the method that
is easiest for you:

  ~ Photocopy the original pattern.  Mark off the parts as you finish them
    with a highlighter or pencil.

  ~ Some people like to see the shapes of the different areas.  For this
    method, photocopy the pattern if the original isn't in color.  Color in
    the entire picture before starting to stitch, using distinctive colors for
    each symbol.  The colors don't need to be close to the thread colors.

  ~ Laminate the chart with clear contact paper.  Mark off the parts as you
    finish them with a fine tip _dry_erase_ pen.  The chart can be wiped
    clean with a paper towel when you are through.  Works on color and B&W
    charts.

  ~ Put the chart on a metal board, and use a magnetic straight edge that can
    be moved along the chart as you stitch.  A variation on this is to use
    non-magnetic plastic strips on a non-metal board.

  ~ Use Post-It notes.  Easy to move, and very portable.

  ~ Baste a grid onto the fabric.  Some people like a 10x10 stitch grid.
    Others just use one horizontal and one vertical line through the center.
    A variation is to baste a small "ruler" near the edge of the fabric,
    outside the area of the picture.


--------------------
2.19  Backstitching
--------------------


Any backstitching should be done after all the cross stitches in the area are
complete.  The number of strands is usually given in the chart instructions,
with a single strand being by far the most common.

To turn a corner without leaving a diagonal on the back side (up on the odd
numbers and down on the even):

                        o 7
                        |
                        |
                        |
                        o 6 8
                        |
                        |
                        |
            o-----o-----o
            2     1     3
                  4     5

Some people prefer a double running stitch to a backstitch.  This is
especially true if the backstitch will leave them stranded in the middle of
nowhere.  To do a double running stitch, go forward doing every other stitch
(up on the odd numbers and down on the even):

            o-----o     o-----o     o-----o
            1     2     3     4     5     6

Then come back, filling in the gaps:

            o-----o-----o-----o-----o-----o
            11    10    9     8     7

To keep the line from looking staggered, be consistent on the return trip.
Always come up on one side of the stitch that is already there, and go down on
the other side.  For example, come up above on stitch 7 and down below on
stitch 8.


------------
2.20  Beads
------------


A bead is attached with a half stitch or quarter stitch.  To make the bead
stand up, use two strands of thread.  Attach the bead as you would expect,
coming up through the first hole, through the bead, and down through the
second (diagonal) hole.  Then, come back up through the first hole, split the
two strands of thread around the bead so one goes on each side, and go back
down through the second hole.  This technique will (most of the time) keep
the bead from drooping or sliding.


-------------------------
2.21  Signing and Dating
-------------------------


Should you sign and date your work?  If it is intended to be entered in a
competition, possibly not.  Find out the rules first.  Otherwise, go for it!
Be proud of your skill.  Signing can make a piece more valuable, as the years
go by.

Samplers usually incorporate the stitcher's initials and the year into the
design.  All other designs require a little more creativity on the signer's
part.

Some people use permanent ink and sign on the edge, where it will be hidden by
the mat or frame.  Personally, why would you want to hide this interesting and
valuable information?

Most people find a way to stitch their name/date with teeny letters, over two
threads.  Try out some variations on scrap cloth, until you find a look you
like.

Note--A teacher once recommended that one not abbreviate the year.  Stitch
"1994" rather than "'94."  She said this was particularly important as we
approach a new century.  Remember, all those things stitched in the 1990's
will be from the previous century in 2001.

There are several things you can do to make a signature visible but
unobtrusive.  For example, use a thread color that is only a shade or two
darker than the fabric.  Or incorporate the signature into a shadow, using the
shadow's color.  Or put it below an object, using the object's color.  Or
figure out a way to make it part of the design...


---------------------------
2.22  Cleaning and Storing
---------------------------


Obviously, when it comes to cleaning cross stitch on bibs, towels, clothing
and napkins, do whatever it takes to get the piece clean.  If this means
throwing it into the washing machine with detergent and bleach, so be it.

However, the heirloom-to-be deserves special treatment or it may become the
heirloom-that-never-was.  Here are some suggestions that are very conservative
and cautious.  It seems safest to list many things that a stitcher might want
to know.  You are then free to use or ignore whatever you choose.

While you are stitching:

   ~ Always wash your hands before stitching, and keep them clean while you
     work.  Don't use hand lotion before stitching.  Keep your hands out of
     your hair, off your face, out of the popcorn, away from the pizza and far
     from the chocolate bar.

   ~ No smoking near the project.

   ~ Watch out for ink from highlighters, and toner from photocopies.

   ~ Cross stitch projects, especially those in scroll frames, make very nice
     cat beds.  You may choose to view any fur that works its way into the
     project as part of the design.  If not, try using a sticky lint remover
     or tweezers.

   ~ Don't store linens or fine fabrics in plastic for the long term.  The
     plastic can trap moisture and, over time, release chemicals.  However,
     storing projects in plastic while they are in progress can help to keep
     them clean.  This is assuming it takes less than 5 years to complete the
     project :-).

   ~ If you want to store a project-in-progress for a more than a few days,
     roll it rather than fold it.  Wrap it in cloth, preferably white.

   ~ If you use a hoop, remove the project after every stitching session.

   ~ Put your project in the hoop or bars backwards.  This prevents the front
     of the design from touching anything when the bars are set down.  It also
     provides more room on the back of the project for ending threads.

   ~ Try not to hold on to the project in a way that leaves your hand touching
     the front of the fabric.  For example, fold any extra fabric forward and
     hold the project there.  Some people like to use a layer of tissue or
     white flannel on top of the project, with an opening in the center to
     stitch through.  These can be fitted into a hoop, and provide something
     to hold onto.


When you are done stitching:

   ~ Always launder the project when completed.  No matter how often you wash
     your hands before stitching there will be skin oils left which may cause
     stains and damage later on.

   ~ Avoid anything which cause the project to have long term (many year)
     exposure to chemicals.  For example, don't use Scotch Guard.

   ~ Do not dry clean, if at all possible. The chemicals can be gritty and
     may have long term effects.  If the piece is lost at the cleaners, you
     will only be reimbursed for the cost of the materials.
     Some fabrics and fibers (wool and silk) may require dry cleaning.  If
     this is the case, go to a very reputable cleaner, and have a long talk
     about the best way for them to do the cleaning.

   ~ Hand wash each piece individually in cold or lukewarm water.  Use
     something which is pH balanced and has _no_ whitening agents.  This means
     something like Ivory Snow, Orvus paste (also used for washing horses and
     cows), Quilt Soap (which is Orvus soap packaged in small containers for
     people who don't need a gallon of it), Treasure Wash, etc.  Do not use
     Woolite, strong detergents or chlorine bleach as they may make the colors
     bleed.  Let the project soak for several minutes. Rinse thoroughly, but
     don't scrub or wring.  If the colors run, repeat the process until the
     water rinses clear.  Some people include vinegar in the water when
     handwashing, to help prevent the colors from running.

   ~ Remove the piece from the water and place it on a clean, white, terry
     cloth towel.  Roll it up like a jelly roll, to remove the excess water.
     While still damp, lay it face down on a couple of towels and iron with a
     dry iron at the wool or linen setting until it is dry.  Try not to move
     the iron back and forth.  You may use a pressing cloth, in fact you
     _should_ use a pressing cloth if there are metallics.  The process of
     ironing until dry prevents uneven drying and puckering of the cloth and
     threads.  Let the project air dry another 24 hours before framing.

When catastrophe strikes, all the tips listed above should be ignored.  Just
do what you have to.  People on rec.crafts.textiles have used detergent,
bleach, hydrogen peroxide, Goop and ice to remove soda pop, rust, mold, vomit,
catsup and bleeding dyes.


------------------------------------
2.23  Mounting, Matting and Framing
------------------------------------


Not all cross stitch needs to be framed like a picture.  Cross stitch can be
found on pillows, linens, clothing, box lids, jewelry, light switch plates,
and so on.

While you may not think the twenty little holiday ornaments you finished late
last night have great value, this is not your decision to make.  Fifty years
from now, they may be someone's pride and joy.  And you don't want to be the
person who messes up someone's priceless collection of late twentieth century
needlework, do you?

If you _are_ going to frame your project, here are some suggestions.  They are
very conservative and cautious.  It seems safest to list many things that a
stitcher might want to know.  You are then free to use or ignore whatever you
choose.  If you take your work to a shop to get it framed, ask the people
there if they do conservation framing.  Make sure they are aware of the
following issues.

   ~ Don't do anything which cannot be undone several years later.

   ~ Avoid anything which cause the project to have long term exposure to
     chemicals, metal or acid.

   ~ Cut any selvage edge before framing.

   ~ Zig-zag each edge, or stitch unbleached muslin to each edge.

   ~ Use acid free foam core or acid-free white mat board as a backing.  These
     are available in framing stores, art supply stores and office supply
     stores.  Have it cut at the store, or use an X-acto knife at home.  Avoid
     normal cardboard and paper, as they have high acid contents.  The acid
     can damage fabric over time.  Do not use sticky board.  The chemicals can
     damage your fabric, and the glue can provide lunch for bugs.

   ~ Center the piece on the backing.  Fold the extra fabric to the back and
     tuck in the corners.  The fabric on the front should be taut but not
     stretched.  You may want to use straight pins pushed into the edge of the
     backing to temporarily hold the fabric in place.  Use unwaxed dental
     floss, quilting thread or some other strong thread to lace the fabric to
     the backing.  Lace the long edges first, sewing from the left to the
     right and back to the left, somewhat like lacing a shoe with only one end
     of the shoe lace.  Keep the stitches about an inch apart.  Make sure the
     thread is evenly tight.  Repeat the lacing for the short edges.  Remove
     the pins, as even rust-free pins will rust over time.

   ~ If you use matting, make sure it is acid-free rag matting.  Consider
     using acid-free rag matting even for double and triple matted pieces,
     where not all of the matting is touching the fabric.  The regular matting
     ages much faster, and it releases fumes.

   ~ Should you use glass?  Like everything else, it's up to you.  On the one
     hand, glass can protect against dust and pollution.  On the other hand,
     it may trap moisture and cause mildew.  If you use glass, make sure it
     does not touch the needlework.  Spacers or matting are good for this.
     Regular glass is O.K.  Standard non-glare glass is bad, as it actually
     lets more ultraviolet light in, and may release chemicals.  Conservation
     glass or UV glass is very good, but expensive.  Figure out how much the
     project is worth to you, and be willing to pay accordingly.


Part 2 of 3 - Counted Cross Stitch Frequently Asked Questions  version 1.03

==============================================================================

                             3.  Finding Supplies

==============================================================================


-----------------------------------------
3.1  Ordering Supplies By Mail and Phone
-----------------------------------------


If you are having trouble finding that special chart or fabric, try contacting
one of the following businesses.  All have been mentioned at one time or
another by someone in rec.crafts.textiles.

Please let me know if you have any corrections or additions.


The American Needlewoman
   PO Box 6472
   Fort Worth TX 76115
   Phone: [phone]


Anne Powell Ltd
   PO Box 3060
   Stuart, FL 34995-3060
   Phone: [phone]
          1-800-622-2646 (For orders only)
   Fax:   [phone]

   Sterling silver & gold needle tools, English hand-painted enamels from
   Crummles, Glenshee evenweave linen & Egyptian cotton, nostalgic "victorian"
   sampler patterns for counted thread, teddy bears, dolls, antique sewing
   tools and gifts. Catalogue available.


California Stitchery
   Phone: [phone]

   Good source for Judaic designs.  Kits.


Cross Stitch & Country Crafts
   Cross Stitch Catalog
   1617 Locust Street
   Des Moines IA  50309

   The catalog, not the magazine.  Kits, supplies, frames, scroll stands,
   books.  Adapters to allow Q-Snaps to attach to scroll stand.


Down Under Designs
   P.O. Box 876
   McMurray PA 15317
   Phone: [phone]  (phone and fax)

   Australian and British patterns, imported to the U.S.  Castles, cottages,
   landscapes, animals, flowers, etc.


Gripit
   125 50th St. NW
   Albuquerque NM 87105
   Phone: [phone]

   Makers of the "Gripit" scroll stands.


The Heart's Content
   Maureen P Appleton
   4440 Indian Trail
   Green Bay WI 54313
   Phone: [phone]

   Colonial Samplers, original designs of unique detail & heirloom quality,
   available in complete kit form with linen and DMC floss, and silk gauze and
   Au Ver A Soie silks. Anne Brinkley miniature box kits. Firescreens,
   candlescreens and chests. Catalogue available.


Hedgehog Handworks
   8406 Flight Avenue
   Los Angeles, CA 90045
   Phone: [phone]

   Costs US$1.  Concentrates on historical needlework and costuming.  Fancy
   specialty fibers, needlework tools, books, fantasy charts, costuming
   supplies.


Herrschners
   Hoover Road
   Stevens Point WI 54492
   Phone: [phone]

   Supplies for cross-stitch, knitting, crocheting, rug hooking, etc.
   Charts available mostly in kits.  Some supplies such as fabric and thread.


Lynn's Treasures
   17 E. Main St.
   Lock Haven PA 17745
   Phone: [phone]
          717-748-2667

   Accessories made from floral prints, with 14 count aida inserts or
   medallions.  Purses, book covers, all sorts of bags and packs.


Marilyn's
   4336 Plainfield NE
   Grand Rapids MI 49505
   Phone: [phone]

   Bound book.  Good source for Stoney Creek patterns, fabrics, kits, threads,
   books.


Mary Jane's Cross 'n Stitch
   5120 Belmont Road Suite R
   Downers Grove IL 60515-4334
   Phone: [phone]
          708-963-9678
   Fax:   [phone]


   3-ring binder, approximate US$7.50 cost, refund when you order.  Periodic
   updates.  Unusual fabrics, good collection of samplers.  Belfast linen.


Mill Hill Publications
   P.O. Box 1060
   Janesville WI 53547
   Phone: [phone]

   _The_ source for Mill Hill glass beads.  Color card listing color names and
   types of beads available for about US$1.  Packages available containing
   collections of all beads of a given type.


Minnie Wisdom Needlework Collection
   419 Correas Street
   Half Moon Bay CA  94019

   The US$2.00 catalog includes European designs.  Samplers, Camelot Castle,
   English cottages.  Charts and some kits.


Needle Arts, Inc.
   2211 Monroe
   Dearborn MI  48124
   Phone: [phone]

   A store specializing in Japanese embroidery.  Washable Zwicky silk thread.
   _Very_ unusual fibers.


Nordic Needle
   1314 Gateway Drive
   Fargo ND 58103
   Phone: [phone]
          701-235-5231

   Fantastic source for hardanger supplies.  Very good selection of
   fabrics and fibers for cross stitching as well.  Good selection of
   samplers.  Color cards for Kreinik, DMC, Marlitt, etc.  Dazor lamps, boxes,
   charms.  More kinds of embroidery scissors than I knew existed.


Spinning Jenny
   Bradley Nr. Keighly
   West Yorkshire BD20 9DD
   England
   Phone: [phone]
   Fax:   [phone]

   A shop in West Yorkshire, accepts international phone, fax, and mail order.

   Carries most European kits.  Designs from Lanarte, Permin, and Thea
   Gouveneur.  Charts available also.  Catalogs cost 1#.


The Stitchery
   120 N. Meadows Road
   Medfield MA 02052-1592
   Phone:  [phone] (customer service)
           1-800-388-9662 (orders)

   Wide variety of kits.


Threads Through Time
   450 Beford Ct
   Naperville IL 60540-7001
   Phone: [phone]

   Kit reproductions of antique American samplers.  Large and small, linen and
   silk gauze.  Some books.


Tomorrow's Treasures
   19722 144th Ave. N.E.
   Woodinville WA 98072
   Phone: [phone]
          206-487-2636
   FAX:   [phone]

   The suppliers of the "E-Z Stitch" needlework frames and scroll stands.
   Also have Dazor lights/magnifiers.


The Way of the Cross
   PO Box 10304
   Peoria IL 61612
   Phone: 1-800-I-LOVE-XS (orders only)
          (309) 692-DEBS (for chatting or researching)

   3-ring binder, US $25.00.  Good variety, large selection.


--------------------------------
3.2  Crafts Information Service
--------------------------------


The Crafts Information Service is a database of over 5,000 suppliers for all
types of crafts media.  It is maintained by the PEI Crafts Council in
Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada.  They enter a comprehensive index
for every catalogue and supply list they can get their hands on.  This allows
for very detailed queries.

There is a FAQ available by anonymous ftp at gus.crafts-council.pe.ca as
/pub/craftsinfo.FAQ.  Access to the database itself, as well as other crafts
related topics, is available by the PEI Crafts Council Gopher (URL:
//gopher.crafts-council.pe.ca:70/).  Most of the same information is also
accessible by World Wide Web from the PEI Crafts Council WWW Home Page (http:
//www.crafts-council.pe.ca/Welcome.html).

This is a non-profit organization.  Services are provided on a pay-what-you-
think-it's-worth basis.  Users are informed what it cost to query the database
and send the information.  If they find the information useful, a donation may
be sent.

For more information about the Crafts Information Service, send email to
[e-mail]


-----------------------
3.3  Needlework Stores
-----------------------


A conscious decision was made not to list needlework stores in this FAQ.
There are so very many of them out there, and the contact information changes
rapidly.  But all is not lost...

The International Needleart Retailer's Guild has a free booklet with the names
and addresses of more than 300 needlework specialty shops.  They mention the
U.S, Canada, England, Australia, and "even Portugal."

Send a long Self-Addressed-Stamped-Envelope to:
  INRG
  PO Box 188
  Department CSSAM
  Pine Mountain GA 31822


--------------------
3.4  Finding Charts
--------------------


If you cannot find a particular chart from the obvious sources--stores,
friends, catalogs--don't give up.  Some magazines have a chart finder or
chart swapping section.  There are also businesses that specialize in this
area.  Details for the one that has been mentioned in rec.crafts.textiles are
given below.

Chart Connection
   PO Box 575749
   Murray UT 84157
   Phone: [phone]

   Bi-monthly newsletter for people interested in buying and selling used
   charts.  Subscribers receive a 40-word listing per issue.  US$16 per year
   or US$4 per issue (applicable toward subscription).  Send name, address
   and first 40 word "Charts Wanted" or "For Sale" listing with payment.


==============================================================================

                     4.  Books, Magazines and Videotapes

==============================================================================


---------------
4.1  Magazines
---------------

Craft stores (especially those which specialize in needlework) are good places
to find cross stitch magazines.  Large bookstores with well-stocked magazine
sections are also worth checking.

Here is an alphabetical list of some of the available magazines.  Not all of
the entries have complete address or phone information. Please let me know if
you have any corrections or additions.  Descriptions are necessarily brief,
and are just intended to give a feel for the types of needlework included.


Anna
   Germany

   There is a U.S. distributor:
      GLP International
      PO Box 9868
      Englewood NJ 07631-1123
      Phone: [phone]
             [phone]

   A monthly needlework and crafts magazine published by Burda.  The U.S.
   version, in English, is US$40 a year.  It has counted cross stitch,
   embroidery, knitting, crocheting, and other crafts.


Celebrations
   P.O. Box 420207
   Palm Coast FL 32142-0207
   Phone: [phone]


Classic Stitches
   Subscribers Dept
   80 Kingsway East
   Dundee DD4 8SL
   Scotland
   Phone: [phone] Ext. 3241  (for credit card subscriptions)

   Office address:
   D C Thomson & Co Ltd
   Albert Square
   Dundee DD1 9QJ
   Scotland

   Six issues a year for 13 pounds 25p (U.K.).  At the time of this posting,
   a special offer was in effect--six issues for the price of five,
   postage-free delivery anywhere in the world, and a gift of 10 Madeira
   threads.  Subscriptions may be paid by Visa or Mastercard.

   Many types of needlework.  Wide variety of articles.  Iron-on transfers.


Creative Needle
   1 Apollo Road
   Lookout Mountain GA 30750
   Phone: [phone] (business)
          1-800-443-3127 (subscription)


Cross Country Stitching
   pub. Jeremiah Junction, Inc.
   P.O. Box 710
   Manchester CT 06045
   Phone: [phone]


Cross Stitch & Country Crafts
   pub. Craftways
   P.O. Box 56829
   Boulder CO 80322-6829
   Phone: [phone]


Cross Stitch Australia
   see listing for "Jill Oxton's Cross Stitch Australia"


Cross Stitch! Magazine
  pub. The Needlecraft Shop, Inc.
  23 Old Pecan Rd
  Big Sandy TX  75755-2218

  Variety of topics and levels of difficulty.


Cross-Stitch Plus
   pub. House of White Birches
   P.O. Box 420235
   Palm Coast FL  32142
   Phone: [phone]

   Nothing too difficult in this magazine, mostly easy patterns.


Cross Stitch Sampler
   pub. NKS Publications Inc.
   P.O. Box 627
   Mt. Morris IL 61054--0627
   Phone: [phone]

   This magazine is not limited to samplers.  They show a variety of
   techniques, fabrics and fibers.  Many heirloom projects.


The Cross Stitcher
   pub. Clapper Publishing Co., Inc.
   P.O. Box 7521
   Red Oak IA 51591-0521
   Phone: [phone]

   Some quick projects.  Many projects per issue.  Good design.

For Love of Cross Stitch
   pub. Leisure Arts
   P.O. Box 420133
   Palm Coast FL 32142-0133
   Phone: [phone]

   They show a variety of techniques, fabrics and fibers.


Inspirations Magazine
   Country Bumpkin Publications
   Box 194
   Kent Town
   South Australia 5071
   Phone: [phone]
   Fax:   [phone]

   Four issues a year for AU$30 in Australia and AU$62 overseas.  Available
   at some U.S. shops for about US$15 per issue, and at some Canadian shops
   for CDN$7.95 per issue.  Subscriptions may be paid by Visa card.  Send your
   name, account number, expiration date and signature to the above address.
   (Note--It took one week from the day I phoned them in Australia and gave
   them my Visa number to the day the magazine arrived in my mail in
   California.)

   Each issue includes fold out patterns and detailed instructions with
   photos.  Projects for beginning and advanced stitchers.  Iron-on patterns.
   Many types of embroidery.


Jill Oxton's Cross Stitch Australia
   Jill Oxton Publications PTY. Ltd.
   A.C.N. 054 893 926
   P.O. Box 283
   Park Holme, South Australia 5043
   Phone: [phone]

   Marketed as "Cross Stitch Australia" in Australia and  "Jill Oxton's Cross
   Stitch" in the U.K.

   Six issues per year.  Subscription price within Australia is unknown.
   Subscription from Australia to the U.S. is AU$78 by economy air.

   Designs range from simple to complex.


Just Cross Stitch
   pub. Symbol of Excellence Publishers, Inc.
   405 Riverhills Business Park
   Birmingham AL 35242
   Phone: [phone]
          1-800-768-5878 (Disney)
          205-995-8860

   The name is misleading.  Techniques other than cross stitch are included.
   They sell their own kits, and have a lot of Theresa Wentzler designs.
   Six issues a year for US$15.95.  Canada and Mexico add $6 postage.  All
   other countries add $12.

   Licensees for Disney patterns.


Leisure Arts: The Magazine
   pub. Leisure Arts
   P.O. Box 420222
   Palm Coast FL  32142-0222
   Phone: [phone]

   Good magazine, not all cross stitch, but always has some good cross stitch
   designs.


Mary Hickmott's New Stitches
   P.O. Box 663
   Carrollton GA 30117

   Creative Crafts Publishing, Ltd.
   The Old Grain Store
   Brenley Lane
   Brenley
   Faversham
   Kent ME13 9LY
   0227750215
   U.K.

   Nice change-of-style magazine for those used to the U.S. ones.

   From: [e-mail] (Marina Salume)...
      Most of the designs are not very intricate however, they are aimed at
      beginning to intermediate stitchers. She does include lessons in how to
      design pictorial scenes in each issue which might be helpful even for
      advanced stitchers.

      It seems to be fairly easy to find Mary Hickmott's magazine in the U.S.,
      I've seen it at fabric stores as well as on newsstands.


McCalls' Needlework
   pub. Symbol of Excellence Publishers, Inc.
   P.O. Box 3218
   Harlan IA  51537

   New magazine.


Needlecraft, Needlecraft's Cross Stitch Collection
   Subscription department:
      Future Publishing
      Cary Court, Somerton,
      Somerset, TA11 6TB
      England

   Editorial department:
      Beauford Court
      30 Monmouth St
      Bath
      Avon
      BA1 2BW
      England

   Phone: [phone]

   Needlecraft has 12 issues a year, for 22 pounds in the U.K. and 53.80
   pounds overseas airmail.  Each issue comes with a small kit.  Needlecraft
   covers a variety of stitching techniques, including quilting, cross stitch,
   and embroidery of all types.

   Needlecraft's Cross Stitch Collection has 4 issues a year, for 15.80 pounds
   in the UK and 25.40 pounds overseas. It also comes with a kit on each
   issue.  It only deals with cross stitch.

   From: [e-mail] (Marina Salume)...
      The Needlecraft magazines are more expensive but that is because they
      come with little kits taped to the front cover. Most are for cross
      stitch cards but there have also been needlework-covered buttons, long-
      stitch pictures, blackwork, etc. Needlecraft and Needlework magazines
      cover a  wide range of embroidery, while the other magazines are
      obviously focused on cross stitch. I love them all! Many of the designs
      are for beginners, however.


Needlework, Needlework Cross Stitch, Needlework Embroidery
   pub. Litharne Ltd,
   P.O. Box 9
   Stratford-upon-Avon
   Warwickshire
   CV37 8BR
   England

   It is possible for foreigners to subscribe to these magazines directly.
   There is also a U.S. distributor:
      Needlework Magazine
      PO Box 389038
      Cincinnati OH 45238-9038
      Phone: [phone]
      Fax:   [phone]

   Needlework has 12 issues a year for 27 pounds in the U.K.  It covers a
   range of needlework techniques. The Cross Stitch version covers only cross
   stitch.

   The magazines have pattern supplements--sections with extra patterns.  They
   also have special offers for kits and books.

   Americans can pay for their subscriptions to these magazines by printing
   on a piece of paper:
      VISA card number,
      expiration date,
      signature.
   VISA figures out the exchange rate and charges you the correct amount.


The Needleworker
   6680 Alhambra Ave #202
   Martinez, CA.  94553

   Four issues a year for US$14.95.  More a newsletter than a magazine, it's
   brought to you by some of the old staff of Cross Stitch and Country Crafts.


Simply Cross Stitch
   pub. The Needlecraft Shop, Inc.
   23 Old Pecan Rd.
   Big Sandy TX  75755-2218

   Easy patterns, simple designs, good for those "need in a hurry" projects.


Stoney Creek Cross Stitch Collection
   pub. Stoney Creek Collection, Inc.
   4336 Plainfield NE
   Grand Rapids MI  49505-1614
   Phone: [phone]

   Challenging patterns, lots of colors.  Have a series of patterns matching
   a given theme, to be worked on an afghan.


--------------------
4.2  Magazine Index
--------------------

Now you have subscriptions to half-a-dozen of the magazines listed above, and
you can't remember _where_ you saw that cute pattern that would be just
perfect for your best friend's new baby.  Never fear.  An index of cross
stitch magazines and their patterns is available.

The Cross-Stitch Index
   The Sewing Room
   P.O. Box 424
   Fulton MD 20759
   Phone: [phone]

It is an 11"x8.5" paperback book which contains a 10 year index of the
magazines listed below.  The cost at the time of posting was US$12.95 plus
US$3.00 shipping.  Supplements are provided semiannually (US$5.95 plus
US$2.00 shipping) or annually (US$7.95 plus US$2.00 shipping).

Magazines in the index:

   Celebrations
   Christmas
   Classic Cross-Stitch
   Counted Cross-Stitch
   Country Stitch
   Country Stitch Monthly
   Cross Quick
   Cross Stitch & Country Crafts
   Cross Stitch Quick and Easy
   Cross Stitch Sampler
   Cross Stitch!
   Cross Stitcher (The)
   Cross-Country Stitching
   Cross-Stitch Plus
   For The Love of Cross Stitch
   Just Cross Stitch
   Leisure Arts
   Needlwords
   Sampler & Antique Needlework Quarterly
   Stoney Creek

Comments...

From: [e-mail] (Patty Andersen)...
   This particular volume is divided into "themes", for example, Amish,
   Colonial, Insects, Jewish, Love, etc.  Fascinating and fairly easy to work
   with.  The only thing I don't like is that they bound it as an 8 1/2 X 11
   book, but the pages are printed as 11 X 8 1/2.  It's annoying to have to
   turn the book sideways to read it.  Minor complaint, but you know how it
   goes.


-------------------------
4.3  Books and Pamphlets
-------------------------

There are many, many books available to help you learn different counted
thread and embroidery techniques.  It is beyond the scope of this FAQ to list
them all, but here are some of the books or book sellers which have
been mentioned in rec.crafts.textiles.  Not all of the entries have complete
address or phone information.


Art of Blackwork Embroidery
   by R. Drysdale

Blackwork
   by M. Gostelow

Blackwork and Holbein Embroidery
   by I. Alturrs

Charted Folk Designs for Cross Stitch
   by M. Foris

Charted Peasant Designs from Saxon Transylvania
   by H. Kiewe

Designs for Shadow Work & Fine Embroidery
   by Donna Krezelak

Designs for Shadow Work and Fine Embroidery II
   by Lane Edwards

Dover Publications Inc.
   180 Varick Street
   New York  NY  10014

   General Publishing Company Ltd.
   30 Lesmill Road, Don Mills
   Toronto Ontario

   Constable and Company Ltd.
   10 Orange Street
   London WC2H 7EG.

   Ask for their catalog of needlework publications.  Some of the entries are:
      Needlework Alphabets
      Blackwork Embroidery by E. Geddes and M. McNeill, ISBN 0-486-23245-X
      Danish Floral Charted Designs by Gerda Bengtsson
      Annie Orr's Charted Designs on the title

First Steps in Counted Cross Stitch
   by Rita Weiss
   ISBN: 0-88195-157-9
   ASN Publishing
   1455 Linda Vista Drive
   San Marcos CA 92069

Hard to Find Needlework Books
   MA, USA

Hardanger - Basics and Beyond, Hardanger - Fundamentals Made Fancy
   by Janice Love
   Love'n'Stitches,
   145 Whippoorwhil Circle
   Athens GA  30605
   Phone: [phone]

Introduction to Counted Cross Stitch Embroidery, Book #15
   Graphworks International Inc.
   P.O. Box 352
   400 Old Two Mile Pike
   Goodlettsville TN 37072
   Phone: [phone]
          615-859-1201
   FAX:   [phone]

Reversible Blackwork.
   I. Alturrs

Sampler and Antique Needlework: A Year in Stitches, 1994
   Symbol of Excellence Publishers
   405 Riverhills Business Park
   Dept. E410E
   Birmingham AL 35242
   Phone: [phone]

   144 pages.  US$24.95 plus US$3.75 for shipping and handling.

Shadow Work: The Easy Way
   by Martha Pullen
   Martha Pullen Co., 1989
   Huntsville AL

Shadow Work Embroidery: Confectionery Dreams
   by Wendy Regan


----------------
4.4  Videotapes
----------------


Spirit of Cross Stitch Video Library
   6000 Market Square Ct., Suite 3
   Clemmons NC  27012

   From the same people who bring you the Spirit of Cross Stitch Festival.  A
   video library of stitching techniques, sent one a month for an annual cost
   of US$179.40 or a quarterly cost of US$53.85.  Topics include (but are not
   limited to) Hardanger, Duplicate Stitch, Drawn Thread, Ruskin Lace,
   Blackwork, Whitework, Pulled Thread and Stitching on Silk.  A Sneak Preview
   tape is available for US$5.


Tomorrow's Treasures
   19722 144th Ave. N.E.
   Woodinville WA 98072
   Phone: [phone]
          206-487-2636
   FAX:   [phone]

   The video "Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Cross Stitch" is a
   taped version of the class these folks give at the Spirit of Cross Stitch
   Festival and the Creative Festival.  Good for beginners and for people who
   want to produce frighteningly neat backs.


==============================================================================

                              5.  Floss and Fibers

==============================================================================


------------------------------------
5.1  Fibers to Use Other Than Floss
------------------------------------

There are many types of fibers available today for counted thread work, with
new specialty types appearing on a regular basis from companies such as
Kreinik and the Caron Collection.  Here is a partial list of what you may
find, and what they may be used for.

Flower Thread
   A matte-finish, 100% cotton thread available in skeins.  Available from
   several fiber manufacturers.  The original is Danish Flower Thread.  DMC
   has 108 flower thread colors, most of which match their floss numbers.
   Used for traditional Danish embroidery.  Also recommended for
   linen/evenweaves and for afghans.  Equal to about two or three strands of
   embroidery floss.

Medici Wool
   A DMC product with a homespun look.  Looks especially nice with natural
   linen.

Metallic Blending Filament
   One ply thin metallic thread, available on spools.  Frequently combined
   with regular floss to provide extra sparkle.
   Tips:
      Use short strands.

Metallic Braids and Ribbons
   Metallic threads, available on spools.  Used alone to provide definition,
   sparkle and texture.  The braids are rounded, and the ribbons are flat.
   Tips:
      Slipknot the thread onto the needle.
      Run the threads over a fabric softener sheet.
      Use short strands.

Perle Cotton
   A "mercerized, twisted, non-divisible lustrous cotton thread" available in
   skeins and balls.  Used with many counted thread techniques, such as pulled
   thread and Hardanger.  Available in different weights--#5 equal to about
   four strands of embroidery floss, and #3 equal to about six strands.

Ribbon Floss
   A shiny, flat fiber.  Can be used with Metallic Ribbon to provide some
   real sparkle.

Silk Thread
   Available as solid or hand painted variegated skeins.  Beautifully smooth.
   CAUTION--some silk thread is not colorfast.


----------------------------
5.2  Floss Conversion Chart
----------------------------

The following floss color conversion chart was originally posted by Dawn
Scotting ([e-mail]).

Use this conversion chart as a guide only.  It is difficult to give exact
alternatives between different brands of embroidery floss since colour
comparisons are subject to personal preference.

 DMC J&PC Anch    DMC J&PC Anch    DMC J&PC Anch    DMC J&PC Anch
  48  201 1201     52  212 1208     61  209   -      62  201 1200
  90  219   -      92  214 1216     93  210   -      95  212   -
 101  221 1214    105  209 1204    107  204 1204    108  219 1219
 113  210   -     114  221 1215    121  210 1210    126  212 1209
White1001    2   Ecru 1002  387    208 4301  110    209 4302  109
 210 4303  108    211 4303  342    221 3242  897    223 3241  895
 224 3240  893    225 3239  892    300   -   352    301   -   884
 304 3401   19    307 2290  289    309 3284   42    310 8403  403
 311 7980  148    312 7979  979    315 3082  972    316 3081   -
 317 8512  400    318 8511  399    319 6246  218    320 6017  215
 321 3500   47    322 7978  978    326 3401   -     327 4101  100
 333   -   119    334 7977  977    335 3283   38    336 7981  150
 340 7110  118    341 7005  117    347 3013   -     349 2335   13
 350 3111   11    351 3011   10    352 3008    9    353 3006    8
 355 2339   -     356 2338 5975    367 6018  217    368 6016  214
 369 6015  259    370   -   856    371   -   855    372   -   854
 400   -   351    402   -   347    407   -   914    413 8514  401
 414 8513  235    415 8398  398    420 5374  374    422 5372  943
 433 5471  310    434 5000  370    435 5371  901    436 5943  890
 437 5942  362    444 2298  290    445 2288  288    451 8233  233
 452 8232  232    453 8231  231    469 6261  267    470 6010  267
 471 6010  267    472 6253  264    498 3410   43    500 6880  879
 501 6878  878    502 6876  877    503 6879  875    504 6875  213
 517 7162   -     518   -    -     519   -    -     520 6318  862
 522 6316  860    523 6316  859    524 6315  858    535 8400   -
 543 5533  933    550 4107  101    552 4092  112    553 4097   98
 554 4104   96    561 6211  212    562 6213  210    563 6210  208
 564 6209  206    580 6267   -     581 6256   -     597 7168   -
 598 7167  167    600 3056   -     601 3128   57    602 3063   63
 603 3001   62    604 3001   66    605   -    50    606 2334  335
 608 2332   -     610 5889  889    611 5898  898    612   -   853
 613   -   956    632 5936  936    640 5393   -     642 5832  832
 644 5831  899    645 8500  273    646 8500   -     647 8900 8581
 648 8390  900    666 3046   46    676 2874  891    677   -   886
 680 2876  907    699 6228  923    700 6227  228    701 6226  227
 702 6239  239    703 6238   -     704 6238   -     712 5387  926
 718   -    88    720 2322  326    721 2324  324    722 2323  323
 725 2298  305    726 2295  295    727 2289  293    729 2875  874
 730   -   924    731 6844  844    732   -   281    733   -   280
 734   -   279    738 5375  372    739 5369  885    740 2099  316
 741 2314  314    742 2303  303    743 2302  302    744 2293  301
 745 2296  300    746 2275  275    747 7053  928    754 2331    6
 758 3868  868    760 3069   -     761 3068   -     762 8510  397
 772 6250  260    775 7031  975    776 3281   24    778 3060   -
 780   -   365    781 5309   -     782 5308  308    783 5307  307
 791 7024  178    792 7150  177    793   -   176    794   -   175
 796 7100  133    797 7023  132    798 7022  131    799 7030  136
 800 7021  129    801 5475  359    806 7169  169    807 7168  168
 809 7021  130    813 7161  160    814 3044   45    815 3000   44
 816 3410   20    817 2335   -     818 3281   23    819 3280  271
 820 7024  134    822 5830  830    823 7982  164    825 7181  162
 826 7180  161    827 7159  159    828 7053  158    829   -   906
 830   -   277    831   -    -     832   -    -     833   -    -
 834   -   945    838 5381  380    839 5360   -     840 5379   -
 841 5376  378    842 5933  388    844 8501   -     869   -   944
 890 6021   -     891   -    29    892 3152   28    893 3152   27
 894 3127   26    895 6021   -     898 5476  360    899 3282   55
 900 2329   -     902 3083   72    904 6258   -     905 6267  258
 906 6256  256    907 6001  255    909 6228  230    910 6031  229
 911 6205   -     912 6205  205    913 6225  204    915   -    65
 917 4089   89    918 3340  341    919 2326  340    920 3337  339
 921   -   338    922 3336  337    924 6008  851    926 6007  850
 927 6006  849    928 7225  848    930 7052  922    931 7051  921
 932 6270  861    926 6269  269    937 6268  268    938 5477  381
 939 7160  152    943 6187  188    945 3335  881    946 2330  332
 947 2327  330    948 2331   -     950 2336   -     951 3335  880
 954 6020  203    955 6030   -     956 3127   54    957 3125   52
 958 6186  186    961 3176   76    962 3151   40    963 3280   73
 964 6185  185    966 6030  240    970 2327   -     971 2099   -
 972 2307  355    973 2290  297    975 5349  355    976 2308  309
 977 2306  313    986 6021  246    987 6258  244    988 6258  243
 989 6266  242    991 6212  189    992 6186   -     993 6185   -
 995 7010  410    996 7001  433   3011 6845  845   3012 6843  843
3013 6842  842   3021 5395  905   3022   -    -    3023   -    -
3024 8390   -    3031 5472   -    3032 5393  903   3033 5388  391
3041 4222  871   3042 4221  870   3045 2412  888   3046 2410  887
3047 2300   -    3051 6317  846   3052 6316   -    3053 6315   -
3064 3883  883   3072 6005  234   3078 2292  292   3325 7976  144
3326 3126   36   3328 3071   -    3340   -   329   3341   -   328
3345 6258   -    3346 6258   -    3347 6266  266   3348 6266  254
3350 3004   59   3354 3003   74   3362 6318  263   3363 6317   -
3364 6010   -    3371 5478  382   3607 4087   87   3608 4086   86
3609 4085   85   3685 3089   70   3687 3088   68   3688 3087   60
3689 3086   49   3705 3012   35   3706 3127   33   3708 3127   31
3712   -    -    3713   -   968   3716   -    25   3721   -    -
3722   -   896   3726 3084  970   3727   -   969   3731   -    77
3733   -    75   3740   -   872   3743   -    -    3746   -    -
3747 7004  120   3750   0    0    3752 7876  976   3753   -   128
3755   -   145   3756   -   274   3760 7975   -    3761   -  9159
3765   -   170   3766   -    -    3768   -   779   3770 3334   -
3772 5579  379   3773   -   882   3774   -   778   3776   -   349
3777   -    -    3778   -  9575   3779   -  4146   3781   -    -
3782   -   831   3787   -   393   3790   -    -    3799 8999  236

The following J&P Coats shades have no DMC match:

    225 2350 2386 2975 3019 3021 3047 3065 3067 3072 3090 3146 3150
   3173 3243 4220 4224 4300 5363 5576 5578 7143 8399 8401


==============================================================================

                                  6.  Fabrics

==============================================================================


----------------
6.1  Silk Gauze
----------------

From: [e-mail] (Amelia J. Scott-Piner)...
      You can stitch any pattern composed only of full cross-stitches on 40-ct
   silk gauze.  The reason that only full stitches can be used is that the
   stitching on the silk gauze is actually a half of a cross- stitch (also
   known as the basic needlepoint "tent" stitch).  Silk gauze petit-point is
   usually stitched with one strand of silk floss on 40-ct (or higher counts)
   silk gauze which is firmly tacked or glued into a frame so that the gauze
   is under firm tension and perfectly straight.  The most common frame for
   silk gauze are two pieces of mat board that have identical openings that
   are exactly one inch larger than the actual design size.  The gauze is
   sandwiched between the two, glued into place, and then stitched.
      Sight problems can be alleviated through the use of magnification.  It
   also helps to have a piece of dark felt or fabric on your lap while
   stitching as fine holes are easier to see against a dark background.


-------------------------
6.2  Types of Evenweaves
-------------------------

The following lists of fabrics were originally posted by Dawn Scotting
([e-mail]) and updated by Jill Scott-Piner
([e-mail]).


Cottons & Blends
----------------

    COUNT  FABRIC NAME     FIBRE CONTENT - Cottons & Blends
    -----  -----------     --------------------------------
      6    Aida            100% cotton
           Cottage Huck
             Towelling     100% cotton
           Herta           100% cotton
           North Glen      90% cotton, 10% viscose
      7    Goldau          40% cotton, 55% rayon, 5% metallic - patterned
           Kali            100% cotton
           Klostern        40% cotton, 60% rayon
      8    Aida            100% cotton
     10    Copenhagen      100% cotton
           Nordic Spring   85% cotton, 15% poly
           Tilla           40% cotton, 55% rayon, 5% metallic - patterned
           Tivoli          100% cotton
     11    Aida            100% cotton
           Damask          Constance - 55% cotton, 45% rayon
                           Obensburg - 55% cotton, 45% rayon
                           Rosemary  - 55% cotton, 45% rayon
                           Rosemont  - 55% cotton, 45% rayon
                           Schonfels - 55% cotton, 45% rayon
                           Stratford - 55% cotton, 45% rayon
           Easycount Aida  100% cotton
           Hardida         100% cotton
    12     Arno            100% cotton
           Saar            100% cotton
    14     Aida            100% cotton
           Ariosa          40% cotton, 60% viscose
           Carola          100% cotton
           Damask Aida     55% cotton, 45% viscose
           Damask          Quick Quilt - 48% cotton, 52% rayon
                           Shona       - 55% cotton, 45% rayon
           Easycount Aida  100% cotton
           Kali            100% cotton
           Malmoe          100% cotton
           Rustico Aida    100% cotton
           Sturbridge      100% cotton
           Sundal          100% mercerized cotton
           Wild West       55% cotton, 45% acrylic
           Yorkshire Aida  96% cotton, 4% poly
    16     Aida            100% cotton
           Congress Cloth  100% cotton
    18     Aida            100% cotton
           Damask Aida     55% cotton, 45% viscose
           Davos           100% cotton   (change of spelling)
           Easycount Aida  100% cotton
           North Glen      90% cotton, 10% viscose
           Rustico Aida    100% cotton
    20     Ariosa          60% rayon, 40% cotton
           Bellana         52% cotton, 48% viscose
           Jobelan         51% cotton, 49% poly
           Kali            100% cotton
           Northland       100% cotton
           Valerie         52% cotton, 48% rayon
    22     Hardanger       100% cotton
           Hardida         100% cotton
           Kitchen         100% cotton
           Oslo Hardanger  100% cotton
    24     Congress Cloth  100% cotton
    25     Andria          52% cotton, 48% rayon - patterned
           Lugana          52% cotton, 48% rayon
           Modena          52% cotton, 48% rayon
           Rimini          52% cotton, 48% rayon
           Sondrio         52% cotton, 48% rayon
           Teramo          52% cotton, 48% rayon
    26     Flowerfield     40% cotton, 60% viscose (also called Meran)
              (Meran)
    27     Alice           100% cotton - patterned
           Gerda           100% cotton
           Linda           100% cotton
    28     Alma Cloth      51% cotton, 49% viscose
           Annabelle       100% cotton
           Brittney        52% cotton, 48% rayon
           Chalet          40% cotton, 60% viscose - patterned
           Jobelan         51% cotton, 49% poly
           Jubilee         100% cotton
           Malmoe          100% cotton
    30     Murano          52% cotton, 48% viscose   (change of count)
    32     Jobelan         51% cotton, 49% polyester



Linens & Blends
---------------

    COUNT  FABRIC NAME     FIBRE CONTENT - Linens & Blends
    -----  -----------     -------------------------------
      9    Linen Aida      cotton, linen
     12    Country Canvas  70% polyester, 30% linen
     14    Country Cloth   70% poly, 30% linen
           Fiddler's Cloth 50% cotton, 42% polyester, 8% linen
           Northwoods      80% acrylic, 20% linen
     17    Danish linen    100% linen
     18    Fiddler's Cloth 50% cotton, 42% polyester, 8% linen
           Floba           70% viscose, 30% linen
           Home Sweet Home 10% linen, 90% polyacrylic - patterned
           Linen           100% linen
           Norlin          60% linen, 30% cotton, 10% viscose
           Unbleached      100% linen
     19    Cork linen      100% linen
     20    Irish linen     100% linen
           Northern Cross  100% linen
     22    Almeria         50% cotton, 35% polyester, 15% linen
           Linen           100% linen
           Linen Hardanger 100% linen
     24    Lorna linen     100% linen
     25    Dublin linen    100% linen
           Easycount Linen 100% linen
           Fine Floba      30% linen, 70% viscose
     26    Brussels Linen  100% linen
           Linen           100% linen
           Unbleached      100% linen
     27    Northern Cross  100% linen
     28    Glasgow         100% linen
           Irish linen     100% linen
           Montrose        100% linen
           Pastel Linen    48% linen, 52% cotton (weft is white, the
                                                  warp is a shade)
           Quaker Cloth    55% linen, 45% cotton
           Shenandoah      55% linen, 45% cotton - patterned
           Unbleached      100% linen
           Whittenburg     71% linen, 29% flax/cotton
     29    Glenshee        100% linen
     30    Brussels Linen  100% linen
           Linen           100% linen
           Northern Cross  100% linen
           Melinda Cloth   60% linen, 40% cotton
           Unbleached      100% linen
     32    Belfast linen   100% linen
           Irish linen     100% linen
           Unbleached      100% linen
     35    Brussels Linen  100% linen
           Edinburgh       100% linen
           Linen           100% linen
           Northern Cross  100% linen
           Unbleached      100% linen
     36    Edinborough     100% linen
           Irish linen     100% linen
     40    Unbleached      100% linen
     45    Carrick         55% linen, 45% cotton
           Zweigart Fine   55% linen, 45% cotton
     50    Kingston        100% linen
     55    Kingston        100% linen


Miscellaneous Blends
--------------------

    COUNT  FABRIC NAME     FIBRE CONTENT - Misc. Blends
    -----  -----------     ---------------------------
     6     Bondeno         100% polyacrylic - patterned
     7     Monk's Cloth    unknown (by Charles Craft)
     10    Jute            100% jute
     12    Jute            100% jute
     14    Alba            100% polyacrylic - patterned
           Angelica        100% polyacrylic - patterned
           Astoria Cloth   50% poly, 50% viscose
           Christmas Plaid 100% trevira/viscose - patterned
           Dutch Garden    100% polyacrylic - patterned
           Florina         100% rayon
           Gardasee        100 polyacrylic
           Gloria Cloth    100% polyacrylic
           Hearthside      100% polyacrylic - patterned
           Homespun Cloth  100% viscose
           Hunt Club Afghan polyester/rayon blend - patterned
           Lady Elizabeth  100% trevira/viscose - patterned (afghan fabric)
           Monza           100% polyacrylic
           Novara          100% polyacrylic
           Proud Pine      100% polyacrylic - patterned
           Ragusa          100% polyacrylic
           Royal Classic   50% polyester, 50% rayon
           Sal--Em         50% poly, 50% rayon
           Soft Touch      100% dacron w/ stain resistant VISA finish
           Udine           100% polyacrylic - patterned
           Valentina       100% polyacrylic - patterned
           Venezia         100% polyacrylic
     16    Wool            100% new wool
     18    Abby Cloth      100% polyacrylic - patterned (afghan fabric)
           Anne Cloth      100% polyacrylic (afghan fabric)
           Arabella        100% polyacrylic - patterned
           Astoria Cloth   50% poly, 50% viscose
           Basic Cloth     100% polyester
           Diamond Afghan  100% polyacrylic - patterned
           Heartsong       poly blend
           Polly           100% polyacrylic (imitation wool)
           Richmond        100% polyacrylic
           Sal--Em         50% poly, 50% rayon
     20    Bergen          100% polyacrylic
     24    Heartland       100% modal
     26    Heatherfield    100% polyacrylic
           Sal--Em         50% poly, 50% rayon


==============================================================================

                                 7.  Equipment
==============================================================================


-------------
7.1  Needles
-------------


Needle Size
-----------
Counted cross stitch should be done with tapestry needles.  They have blunt
points and much larger eyes than sewing needles.  The larger the size number,
the smaller the needle.  One traditional rule says you should use a 22 needle
if the fabric is 14 count or less, a 24 or 26 needle if the fabric count is
16-18, and a 26 needle if the fabric is finer than 18.  Most people ignore
this and use whatever they like best.

The size/amount of thread used can also determine the best needle size.

The usual "rule" holds--find a size (or sizes) _you_ like.


Needle Finish
-------------
Some people tend to lose the finish on their needles.  Besides being ugly,
this makes the needle more difficult to use.  Special finishes, such as gold,
nickel and platinum, are available.  They cost more but tend to last much
longer.  For the ultimate in stitching luxery, you can buy a solid gold
needle for around US$40.  Keep trying different finishes until you find the
one that works best for you.


--------------------
7.2  Needle Control
--------------------


Even though chair arms are very convenient for holding needles, such use can
cause other members of the household to acquire a more inimate acquaintance
with the tools of your craft than either they or you desire.

A pin cushion is an obvious solution.  Needle safes also work well.  These
are small, flat cases lined on the inside faces with magnets.  Needle safes
can cost from US$5 for a small plastic one to more than US$30 for a good,
handcrafted, wood-and-brass box.  People have also had good results with
magnetic paperclip holders, which are available in any place that sells office
supplies.


---------------------------------
7.3  Hoops, Scroll Bars and Such
---------------------------------

First, the traditional rule--stitch on aida using a hoop and stitch on linen
"in the hand".

In actual practice, people do whatever works best for them.  Most who like
their fabric taut _do_ tend to avoid hoops in favor of scroll bars or
stretcher bars when working on linen, as hoops may damage the fabric.

See section "2.5 Hoop or Hand?" for the "in-a-hoop vs. in-the-hand" debate.
The discussion in this section assumes that you _have_ decided to use a hoop
or the like.

TIP--Put your project in the hoop or bars backwards.  This prevents the front
of the design from touching anything when the bars are set down.  It also
provides more room on the back of the project for ending threads.


Stands
------
Most of the following items may be used with a stand.  Some people like the
stands, as they can then do "two handed" stitching.  This is a method where
one hand is always above the cloth and the other is always below.  People who
have trouble holding projects for long periods of time also may find stands
useful--they help avoid or reduce effects from tendonitis, arthritis and
cramping.

There are lap frames which straddle the lap of the stitcher.  The bigger
stands are floor models and may take up a great deal of space.  Some of them
come with chart holders, lamp holders and even magazine racks.

One side benefit is that stands are usually in plain view with the current
project highly visible, ready to be complimented and begging to be worked on.
People with cats may find that felines appreciate stands too, to the sorrow of
the stitcher.


Hoops
-----
Standard hoops are made of wood or plastic.  They are inexpensive and widely
available.  While most are circular, there are some oval shaped ones.  A
variation on the hoop consists of a plastic outer ring and a metal inner
spring/ring.

Common complaints about hoops:
   ~ Having to move the hoop as stitching progresses can be a nuisance.
   ~ A hoop placed over existing stitches may distort them.
   ~ Marks, stains or creases may be left in the fabric.

Make sure your hoops are clean.  Plastic hoops can be washed in the
dishwasher.

Remove the hoop when you are not working.


Scroll Bars
-----------
A set of scroll bars consists of two wooden scroll bars and two spacers.  The
fabric is attached to the scroll bars (which look like dowel rods).  The
spacers hold the scroll bars apart.  They may be attached with wing nuts
(cheaper) or with wooden knobs (more expensive).

There are several methods for attaching the fabric.  A bar may have a strip of
heavy-duty material stapled to it.  The fabric for the project is then basted
on, using a strong thread such as quilting or carpet thread.  Another style
has a slit in the bar into which the edge of the fabric is placed.  A third
style uses a groove in the bar and a tube or rod to hold the fabric in the
groove.

Scroll rods and spacer bars are available in many sizes.  Select a scroll rod
size that is slightly wider than your fabric.  Any fabric longer than the
spacer bars is rolled up onto the scroll rods.

Much more of the project is "in-range" than with a hoop.  Tension is not even
in the horizontal and vertical directions, but this isn't too noticeable if
the scroll tension is kept very tight.

It is possible to purchase a basic set of scroll bars quite cheaply, so you
can experiment and see if you like them.

Suggestions--Mark the center of the scroll rod, to make it easier to center
the fabric.  When attaching the fabric to the scroll rod, work from the center
and work out to the edges.


Q-Snaps
-------
Q-Snaps (also called Q-frames) are a recent development.  They consist of four
pieces of white PVC plastic pipe, about 1" in diameter, which are joined at
the corners to form a square or rectangle.  The fabric is held onto each side
by a shell of PVC plastic which snaps down over the pipe.

Q-Snaps are sold in packages of four sides, in lengths of 8 inches, 11 inches
and 17 inches.  They are then assembled by the user to form, for example, an
8x11 inch rectangle.

People who use them like their versatility.  The fabric creases caused by
hoops doesn't seem to occur.  The tension is even in both the vertical and
horizontal directions, unlike scroll bars.


Stretcher Bars
--------------
Stretcher bars are made of wood.  They are sold in packages of two sides.  I
have seen them in lengths from 4"-40".  The sides are assembled to form a
square or rectangle.

With stretcher bars, the entire project area is visible at all times.  Some
people prefer to use stretcher bars only with stiffer fabrics, such as canvas,
but other stitchers like them even for soft linens/evenweaves.

The edges of the fabric should be prepared in some way to make them stronger
and to stop them from fraying.  Basting, hemming or binding tape are
recommended by different people.  The fabric is then attached to the frame
with quilting tacks or staples.  Start at the center of each side and work out
to the edges.  The fabric should be taut, but not distorted.  The tension is
even in both the vertical and horizontal directions, unlike scroll bars.


--------------------------
7.4  Magnifiers and Lamps
--------------------------


Good lighting, of the proper strength and color, can make a world of
difference in the ease with which you can sort thread colors or see those
teeny holes in the fabric.  While natural lighting is the best, most of us
don't want to limit our stitching time to daylight hours.

Below are some extracts from postings about this topic.

From: [e-mail] (Gillian Cannon)...
   Fluorescent lamps (tubes) come in different colors, just as do incandescent
   lamps.  Designer Warm White in a fluorescent lamp will give you true
   "daylight" colors.  If you do not get the correct color of incandescent
   lamp (and they are harder to get true colors from) you will have major
   color changes.  This is information from my daughter, the interior
   designer, and her technical notes on lighting...

   Also, as I originally mentioned, the heat is a large factor from
   incandescent lamps as well as the focused light which, in conjunction with
   a magnifier, can cause fires.

From: [e-mail] (Gillian Cannon)...
   There has been some discussion on several conferences about light bulbs
   (technically called lamps) for use with cross stitch or other work that
   requires "true" colors.

   After consulting with a lighting expert here are his suggestions:
   Fluorescents can give the closest to "natural light" of any artificial
   source.

   For circular fluorescents (e.g., for use in Dazors), the Design 50 has 5000
   Kelvins and is closest to natural daylight.  The Designer Cool White is
   also close to natural light but is not available in circular form.

   The second best artificial light is halogen, with the Daylight lamp, which
   is 6500 Kelvins.

   The poorest form of commonly used artificial light is the incandescent
   lamp, but you can get "color corrected daylight" bulbs at a lighting
   specialty store.


Magnifiers can also be a big help.  There are inexpensive types which clip
onto glasses.  Another kind hangs around the user's neck and is braced against
the chest.

"Around the neck" pluses:
   ~ Inexpensive
   ~ Portable

"Around the neck" minuses:
   ~ Can be uncomfortable if you have a chest that is (ahem...) not very flat.
   ~ Your light source may reflect back off of the magnifier.  This seems to
     be a problem only with artificial lighting.
   ~ Little control over the distance from your eyes to the lens.

Dazor brand lamps are lamps with magnifiers incorporated.  They are generally
considered the top of the line in magnifiers for crafters. The lamps come in
white, black and cream.

Dazor pluses:
   ~ Different lenses for different magnification levels.
   ~ Choice of fluorescent or incandescent bulbs.
   ~ Floor models have weighted bases, so the arm can be extended without
     tipping the lamp over.
   ~ Bases come with wheels (optionally).
   ~ There are models (without bases) which can be clamped onto scroll stands.

Dazor minuses:
   ~ Very expensive
   ~ Very heavy


==============================================================================

                          8.  Creating Your Own Charts

==============================================================================


-----------------------------------
8.1  From a Photo - Do It Yourself
-----------------------------------

Suppose you have a favorite photograph which you _know_ would look just as
wonderful as a cross stitch picture.  It is possible for you to create the
chart yourself, with patience, graph paper and a photocopier.  There are
several variations in the basic technique, but all involve placing a grid onto
a copy of the photo.

Plastic transparencies with a variety of grid sizes are available from many
craft stores under the brand names "TransGraph-X" or "Easy Grid".  If you
cannot find these transparencies, you may be able to make your own by
photocopying graph paper onto the kind of plastic sheets used with overhead
projectors.

Lay the transparency over a picture or photograph, and photocopy them at the
same time.  If you can find a place to do a color photocopy, all the better.
This gives something that can be used as the start of your chart.  You will
still need to make decisions as to thread colors.

Another method is to trace the picture before putting it on any kind of graph.

Below is one person's approach:

From: [e-mail] (Lisa Balbes)...
   I did this on a comic book cover, but the principle will apply for any
   picture.  You'll need to:

   1. Start with a rather large copy of the picture, perhaps slightly smaller
      than you want the finished picture to be.  (Blowing it up on a copier is
      much cheaper than getting a big print - you can use black and white copy
      if it's high contrast, otherwise blow it up in color.

   2. Trace the picture onto graph paper, 20 squares to the inch is a good
      size.  Remember to trace the outlines of all shapes, as well as
      backstitching lines (where needed to define the shapes).  Decide how
      much shading you will do, and outline regions accordingly.

   3. Take the tracing and use it to make a pattern on graph paper (10
      squares to the inch for this part).  In this stage you will decide which
      will be 1/4 stitches, what will be 3/4 stitches, etc.  You will "square
      off" all the curves.  There are 2 reasons for this step - you get a
      bigger pattern to work from, and you make all the decisions now, instead
      of when stitching.

   4. Take the _original_  picture to your favorite store with a good display
      of floss.  (You can do this at home if you have a stitcher's card that
      displays pieces of each color of floss.)  Choose the colors, noting not
      only what is closest to the color of the real thing, but what colors
      work together.

   5. If you now work the piece on 18 count fabric, it will turn out slightly
      larger than the copy you traced.  (I prefer to work over 2 threads on 36
      count linen.)


--------------------------------
8.2  From a Photo - Mail It Off
--------------------------------


There are companies which will turn pictures you send them into charts.  The
floss colors are figured out for you, usually in DMC and Anchor numbers.  The
cost is US$20-US$50, on average.  You can find companies advertising in most
cross stitch magazines.

Herrschners, Inc.
   Hoover Road
   Stevens Point WI  54492
   Phone: [phone]

   Graph only - US$28.99.  Graph plus 15x18" piece of 14-ct. aida fabric -
   US$33.99.  Graph, DMC Floss pack and Free 14-ct. aida fabric - US$49.99.

ImagiStitch
   4839 E. Greenway, #216
   Scottsdale AZ 85254

MagiKraft
   Dept. I
   P.O. Box 357
   Downers Grove IL 60559
   Phone: [phone]

   US$25 for pattern only, US$45 for a full kit (pattern, fabric, needle,

   thread), US$5 additional to remove backgrounds.  You specify final project
   size and thread count (fabric type).  DMC thread.

PhotoStitch Ltd.
   West One House, 23 St. Georges Road,
   Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, GL50 4Dt
   U.K.
   Phone: [phone]

Photo Pattern Company
   Department M
   P.O. Box 1525
   Poulbso WA 98370-0169
   Phone: [phone]

   US$19.95 plus $2 shipping and handling.  Cross stitch, needlepoint or
   latch hook.  Stitch count of 150x120.

Preferred Services
   Crafts Division
   Dept. C24
   457 Main Street, Suite #139
   Farmingdale NY 11735

   US$19.95.

Stitch-a-Photo

   US$30 plus $2 S&H in the US.


------------------------------------------------------
8.3  Use a Computer - Original Design or From a Photo
------------------------------------------------------

The high tech way to make your own charts is with a computer.  There are
programs available which can help convert a scanned image into a chart.
Others let you create your own design.

In the interest of saving space, the "charting" software is grouped with other
cross stitch related software in another section of this FAQ--"9.2 Computer
Software For Cross Stitch".


Part 3 of 3 - Counted Cross Stitch Frequently Asked Questions  version 1.03

==============================================================================

                        9.  Computers and Cross Stitch

==============================================================================


---------------------------------
9.1  Discussion Groups and BBS's
---------------------------------

Since this is the Counted Cross Stitch FAQ for rec.crafts.textiles, and you
are reading it, I'm going to assume that you know how to access the Internet
and its news groups.

There are other discussion groups and BBS's available to you.  Some are from
the big commercial services, such as CompuServe and Delphi.  Others are more
of a mom-and-pop operation.  Both kinds can be wonderful sources of
information and software.


CompuServe
----------

Go hang out in the Crafts Forum.


The Crafts Board
----------------

From a posting on 1 Mar 1994 by [e-mail] (HollandCom)...
   The Crafts Board-
   Over 50 downloadable craft files, 30 different craft related forums, online
   experts like Gail Brown, online and downloadable craft magazines, Online
   Crafts Shopping Mall with 1000's of craft products(under construction
   opening in late March), Online Arts&Crafts Show database with over 2000
   listings Real time chat line, ANSI and Rip compatible and much more.

   BBS number [phone]
   voice/fax [phone]

   Internet connection coming soon!

   A service of Holland Communications


Delphi
-------

The Textile Arts Forum (Custom Forum 135) is for people interested in all the
textile arts, including needlework.  Live conferences. Database of shareware,
gifs and text files.  Contact the host, Susan Druding ([e-mail]),
for more info.


Fibernet
---------

A BBS operated by Ron Parker.  Dial 218-583-4337 from a modem, at 8N1, 1200-
28800 bps.  From a January, 1993 message by Ron:
   You are asked to leave a message introducing yourself before I validate you
   for full downloading privs.  If you are unfamiliar with BBS use, send me a
   long SASE at Fibernet, Rt. 1 Box 153, Henning, MN 56551.  Fibernet is free
   by the way - except for your phone call...



----------------------------------------
9.2  Computer Software For Cross Stitch
----------------------------------------

There are many commercial and shareware computer programs available to help
you create charts or inventory your supplies.  A list of those which have been
mentioned in rec.crafts.textiles is given below.  Check your favorite cross
stitch magazine for advertisements of commercial products.  These have the
most up-to-date information.

This list is for informational purposes only, and is not meant as a
recommendation. The suitability and/or reliability of these products for any
task is unknown (by me, at least).

Note that some of this information may be out of date or incomplete.  Please
notify me if you have any additions or corrections.


Finding the software:

   Commercial - Addresses are given for commercial products.

   Internet -   I chose not to list Internet archive locations for the
                shareware, as there are so many archives out there.  Some
                sites that contain one or more programs are:
                   ftp.wustl.edu
                   oak.oakland.edu    /msdos/gif/
                   doc.ic.ac.uk       /recreation/crafts/fido-cfdn
                   cs.uwp.edu         /recreation/crafts/fido-cfdn

   CompuServe - Library 5 of the Crafts Forum.

   Delphi     - Textile Arts Forum

   Fibernet -   See previous section for information on how to reach Fibernet.

   STCUG -      Seattle Textile Computer User's Group (STCUG).  STCUG has
                several disks for IBM and Mac (US$4 each) and the FIBERbits
                newsletter (US$18).  Contact them at P.O. Box 17506, Seattle
                WA 98107.


And finally, here is the list...


ColorKnit                                                               (Mac)
-----------
Type/Cost:       Shareware, US$15
Version:
Where to Find:   Paul Duffy, 71 Oxford Street, Somerville MA  02143


   A color, grid-based program.  Even though this program is intended for
   knitting patterns, it can easily be adapted for counted cross stitch.


CompuStitch                                                          (PC DOS)
-----------
Type/Cost:       Shareware, US$20
Version:         3.1
Where to Find:   CompuServe (CSTCGA.EXE, CSTVGA.EXE), Fibernet (CSTCGA.EXE,
                 CSTVGA.EXE), STCUG

   Design cross-stitch patterns up to 180x180.  The VGA version can use up to
   142 colors, the CGA/EGA version can use 3 colors.  Both support whole
   stitches, 1/4 stitches, back stitches and french knots.  The VGA version
   supplies DMC numbers and prints a color list.


Cross Stitch (?)                                                 (PC Windows)
----------------
Type/Cost:       Commercial, Cost unknown
Version:
Where to Find:   U.K.
                 CompuServe (demo - XSDEMO.ZIP)

   Design cross stitch patterns.  Full stitch, back stitch. Sixteen colors.
   Pattern size calculator.  Scalable printing.  Animated colors.


Cross-Stitch Designer                                            (PC Windows)
---------------------
Type/Cost:       Shareware, US$30
Version:         2.1c
Where to Find:   R. Scott Horton, HobbyWare, 9686 Spruce Lane, Fishers IN
                    46038
                 or
                 CompuServe (XSTITC.ZIP), Fibernet (xstitc.zip)

   Not the same as the MasterStitch CrossStitch Designer mentioned below.
   Design cross stitch patterns.  Full, half, quarter and back stitches.  Grid
   size up to 999x999, with 30 colors.  DMC thread list.  Bitmap importing.
   View and edit in stitch, symbolic, and solid display modes.


CrossStitch Designer                                                 (PC DOS)
--------------------
Type/Cost:       Commercial, US$149.95
Version:
Where to Find:   MasterStitch Designs, Inc., PO Box 6283, Kent WA 98064-6283.
                    206-413-1054 or 206-850-3302
                 Canadian Distributor: Tai-pan Video & Computer, RR#2 Box 2590
                    Clearwater, B.C.  V0E 1N0.  604-674-2442
                 or
                 CompuServe (demo - MSCSD.EXE, description - MSCSD.TXT)

   Not the same as the HobbyWare Cross-Stitch Designer mentioned above.
   Paint style design program.  Select up to 120 DMC colors from the 360
   available.  Grid size up to 200x190.  Print picture chart and color/symbol
   chart.

   Companion product Color ImageImport (US$49.95) converts any 320x200x256 PCX
   or GIF image into DMC colors.


CrossMagic                                                           (PC DOS)
----------
Type/Cost:       Shareware, US$30
Version:         2.02
Where to Find:   See instructions below

   Info from the author, [e-mail] (Murray Moffatt)...

   CrossMagic allows you to enter and maintain details on all your threads and
   charts.  It'll print reports on what threads you've run out of and need to
   buy again, which charts you can make with your existing stock of floss,
   what floss you need to buy to make a particular chart, inventory lists,
   it'll even let you enter a search text and will list all the charts you own
   that pertain to that subject.  Comes with a complete catalogue of DMC &
   Anchor Embroidery Floss, Balger/Krenik Filament, DMC Flower Thread, Balger
   Ribbon.  Evenweave conversion is catered for, and there is comprehensive
   on-line help for all options.

   A fully registered version of CrossMagic is available directly from the
   author at the following address:

      Model Systems
      P.O. Box 40-047
      Glenfield
      Auckland 1310
      NEW ZEALAND

   An evaluation copy of CrossMagic is available for downloading from
   CompuServe in the CRAFTS forum (library 5, XMAGIC.ZIP) or directly from us
   for the price of US$6.00 (this is to cover the cost of the disk and
   postage and handling).

   The registration is US$30.00, and includes the program, a professionally
   printed manual, postage and handling, and by special arrangement with two
   other shareware authors we have been granted permission to include two
   cross-stitch charting programs; GIFXTS for DOS, and Cross-Stitch Designer
   for Windows (these two additional programs are provided for you to evaluate
   and must be registered with their original authors if you decide to use
   them after the evaluation period).

   In addition to the above package, we have a library of charts that are
   compatible with Cross-Stitch Designer.  This collection of 222 charts (2.5
   megabytes worth) covers many different subjects.  The library is available
   for only US$20.00, or if you order CrossMagic at the same time then you can
   purchase the library for only US$10.00!

   If you are a CompuServe user then you may pay for CrossMagic via the CIS
   Shareware Registration Service.  Simply GO SWREG and follow the prompts.
   CrossMagic's registration ID is 1847.  The registration fee of US$30.00
   will be added to your next CIS account.  If paying by this option then
   please allow 60 days for delivery of your manual and software.

   If you live in New Zealand then you may pay us directly by mailing your
   registration to:

               Model Systems
               P.O. Box 40047
               Glenfield
               Auckland 1310
               NEW ZEALAND

   New Zealand users must pay by cheque only (we don't accept credit
   cards).

   If you live in the United States of America or anywhere else in the world,
   then you can pay by credit card.  You can order with MC, Visa, Amex, or
   Discover from Public (software) Library by calling 800-2424-PsL or
   713-524-6394 or by FAX to 713-524-6398.  You can also mail credit card
   orders to PsL at P.O.Box 35705, Houston, TX 77235-5705.  CrossMagic is
   PsL item #11420.

             *** THE ABOVE NUMBERS ARE FOR ORDERS ONLY ***

   Any questions about the status of the shipment of the order, refunds,
   registration options, product details, technical support, volume discounts,
   dealer pricing, site licenses, etc, must be directed to Model Systems.

   To insure that you get the latest version, PsL will notify us the day of
   your order and we will ship the product directly to you.

   If you have further inquiries, please direct them to:

           Internet:    [e-mail]
           CompuServe:  Murray Moffatt [100240,1477]


Crstitch                                                         (PC Windows)
--------
Type/Cost:       Shareware, cost unknown
Version:
Where to Find:   Hank Hagquist ([e-mail])

   Imports BMP and PCX format pictures.  Converts the colors to DMC numbers.
   Allows you to select the mesh size, and helps to fit the picture to it.
   Can be printed out in color or with DMC color codes.


DMC Database Management System                                       (PC DOS)
------------------------------
Type/Cost:       Shareware, US$10.00
Version:         1.0
Where to Find:   CompuServe (DMC.ZIP), Fibernet (DMC.ZIP), STCUG

   Database for supplies, patterns and DMC floss.  Helps keep track of what
   you have and what you need.  Prints labels of floss colors.


DMC Inventory Program                                                (PC DOS)
---------------------
Type/Cost:       Shareware, cost unknown
Version:
Where to Find:   CompuServe (DMCINV.ZIP), Fibernet (DMCINV.ZIP)

   Inventory DMC colors and supplies.


EasyGrapher Backstitch, EasyGrapher Specialty , EasyGrapher Deluxe       (PC)
------------------------------------------------------------------
Type/Cost:       Commercial, cost varies with program
Version:
Where to Find:   Easy Grapher, Davis Computer Services, Inc., P.O. Box 70175,
                    New Orleans, LA 70175.  800-231-3480, 504-899-9706
                 CompuServe (demos - EGBZIP.EXE, EGSZIP.EXE, EGXZIP.EXE,
                                     EGZIP.EXE)
                 STCUG (demos)

   Design needlework graphs.  Programmed tutorial available as EGZIP.EXE.
   EasyGrapher Specialty is for Bargello, Hardanger, plastic canvas, drawn
   thread work, etc.  EasyGrapher Deluxe is for cross stitch.  Up to 11,900
   backstitch lines can be added with EasyGrapher Backstitch.


GIF2XTS                                                              (PC DOS)
-------
Type/Cost:       Shareware, US$40.00
Version:         5.0
Where to Find:   Chris O'Donnell ([e-mail] on Internet, CHRISOD on
                                  Delphi, 70431,1427 on Compuserve)
                    PO Box 113, Middlebury CT 06762
                 CompuServe (GIFXTS.ZIP, GIFXTS.TXT),
                 Delphi
                 Fibernet (gifxts*.zip),
                 STCUG
                 Internet (OAK.Oakland.Edu /msdos/gif/gifxts50.*)

   Formerly GIFXTS.  Create cross stitch charts from GIF files.

   The default setup of gif2xts is a maximum image size of 640x480.  The
   default screen resolution is dependent on the monitor: EGA will be 640x350,
   16 colors; non-sVGA will be 640x480, 16 colors; sVGA will be 640x480 256
   colors. The graphcis resolution can be changed to run as high as 1024x768
   with 256 colors, provided your monitor can support the different
   resolutions. The maximum image size can also be changed.  The largest
   possible image size is dependent on the amount of free XMS, EMS or virutal
   memory.

   When GIF2XTS loads a GIF image each of the pixel colors will be translated
   into a symbol. Regardless of the maximum number of colors the monitor can
   support, GIF2XTS can handle 256 different colors/symbols.

   Symbols can be added to or deleted from the grid.  The size of the image
   can be changed. Rows and/or columns can be added to the edge of the image,
   inserted into the the image, or deleted from the image.  The image can also
   be "clipped", scaled, and printed.

   This version has the ability to assign DMC names and numbers to the
   different symbols. Since the program reads GIF images, there are over 16
   million possible colors that could be used. Rather than select 360 of these
   colors, a program is available to registered users that allows the user to
   associate palette colors with DMC colors.

   Registered users recieve a copy of the program without a reminder to
   register, minor upgrades automatically mailed, major upgrades available via
   mail (for US$5) and a printed copy of the manual. In addition, registered
   users will recieve, with the program, a library of ABC's and 123's, all 360
   DMC colors mapped to RGB values, a conversion program to convert from BMP,
   PCX, IFF, LBM or TIF to GIF, and a program to create their own RGB-to-DMC
   mapping.


Macintosh Color CrossStitch Viewing                               (Macintosh)
-----------------------------------
Type/Cost:       Non-commercial, cost unknown
Version:
Where to Find:   CompuServe (CROSSS.SEA),

  Used to view a color version of a cross-stitch.  Works best on machines with
  thousands or millions of colors.


Needlework                                                        (Macintosh)
----------
Type/Cost:       Shareware, US$20
Version:
Where to Find:   EduCorp catalog - 800-843-9497

   From a 1993 posting by [e-mail] (Vicki Brown)...
      There is a shareware program called Needlework, for the Macintosh.  The
      graphing area is 90x90 with a choice of 28 symbols.  Each symbol can
      have a color attached, to be printed as a key.  You can also draw lines
      for backstitching and enter instructions.  The version I have (2.2)
      won't read in an existing picture and chart it, and it is b&w only.
      Maybe the author will improve it.  If you send the author $20 you'll get
      the newest version personalized for you.


Needlework Pattern Design Program                                    (PC DOS)
---------------------------------
Type/Cost:       Shareware, US$39
Version:         2.3
Where to Find:   CompuServe (XSZIP.EXE), Fibernet (XSZIP.EXE), STCUG

   Design cross-stitch patterns.  GIF import and export.  Half stitches and
   french knots.  Symbols.


PC-Stitch                                                            (PC DOS)
---------
Type/Cost:       Commercial, US$45
Version:
Where to Find:   M & R Enterprises, P.O. Box 9403, Wright Bros. Branch, Dayton
                    OH 45409.  800-800-8517
                 CompuServe (demos - XSCGA.EXE, XSEGA.EXE, XSHERC.EXE),
                 Fibernet (demos - XSDEMO.EXE), STCUG (demos)

   Create needlecraft patterns.  Graph size up to 200x140.  Versions for CGA,
   EGA/VGA and Hercules.  Colors or symbols.  Up to 16 colors (EGA/VGA).


PC-Stitch Graphics File Import                                       (PC DOS)
------------------------------
Type/Cost:       Commercial, cost depends on upgrade path
Version:
Where to Find:   M & R Enterprises, P.O. Box 9403, Wright Bros. Branch, Dayton
                    OH 45409.  800-800-8517
                 CompuServe (demo - IMPRT.EXE)

   Companion program for PC-Stitch.  Converts .BMP, .GIF, .PCX, .TIF, .WPG,
   WMF, and .TGA files to PC-Stitch pattern files.


Stitch Crafts                                                     (Macintosh)
Stitch Grapher                                             (IBM PC, Apple II)
--------------
Type/Cost:       Commercial, US$150 (Mac), US$90 (PC)
Version:
Where to Find:   Compucrafts, PO Box 326, Lincoln Center MA 01773
                    508-263-8007

   Design needlecraft charts.  "Change symbols, copy, rotate, choose from 360
   color DMC palette, up to 50 symbols (Mac) or 30 symbols (PC)."  Create
   charts and legends from color pictures.


Stitch-It II                                          (PC Windows, Macintosh)
------------
Type/Cost:       Commercial, cost unknown
Version:
Where to Find:   Sheridan Software, address unknown
                 Fibernet (demos - stitchit.cpt (Mac), stitchit.zip (Windows))

   The PC version requires Windows 3.0 or 3.1.


Stitch Painter                                (Macintosh, IBM Windows, Amiga)
--------------
Type/Cost:       Commercial, US$165
Version:
Where to Find:   Cochenille Design Studio, P.O. Box 4276, Encinitas CA 92023
                 CompuServe (demos - SPDEMO.ZIP, STCHPA.SEA, IBMSTI.TXT)

   Design cross stitch and knits. Demo disk available.


STITCHERY                                                             (Amiga)
---------
Type/Cost:       Shareware, cost unknown
Version:
Where to Find:   CompuServe (STITCH.LZH), Fibernet (STITCH.LZH)

   Converts an IFF file into color coded diagrams. May be used for cross
   stitch, needlepoint, knitting...

This program will only work with Amiga operating system version 1.3.


XSGIF                                                                (PC DOS)
-----
Type/Cost:       Shareware, cost unknown
Version:
Where to Find:   CompuServe (demo - XGDEMO.EXE), Fibernet (demo - XGZIP.EXE)

   Convert GIF files to "XStitch" patterns.  Must be a registered user of
   "XStitch" to get a working version of this program.


X-Stitch, X-Stitch Designer                                          (PC DOS)
---------------------------
Type/Cost:       Commercial, cost unknown
Version:
Where to Find:   Oxford Crafts, PO Box 208, Bonsall CA 92003
                    619-723-0141
                 or
                 IL-Soft Buttercross House, 16 Langdale Gate, Witney,
                    Oxfordshire UK
                    [phone] voice or [phone] fax
                 CompuServe (demo - XSTCH.ZIP)


X-Stitch Pro                                                         (PC DOS)
------------
Type/Cost:       Commercial, US$39
Version:         1.5
Where to Find:   Oxford Crafts, PO Box 208, Bonsall CA 92003
                    619-723-0141
                 or
                 IL-Soft Buttercross House, 16 Langdale Gate, Witney,
                    Oxfordshire UK
                    [phone] voice or [phone] fax
                 CompuServe (demo - XSPRO.EXE)

   Supports backstitches and half stitches.  Can combine several pictures
   together.  Import/export PCX and GIF. Color only, symbol only, or color and
   symbol.  Supports 360 DMC colors plus custom colors, prints the symbol
   chart, calculates the fabric and floss needed.  Allows the picture to be
   manipulated in several ways.

   Similar to X-Stitch V2.0. For SuperVGA.


==============================================================================

                          10.  Activities and Events

==============================================================================



---------------------------------------------
10.1  International Cross Stitch Round Robin
---------------------------------------------

Dawn Scotting ([e-mail]) organizes international round
robin groups for counted cross stitch samplers.  The following is from her
posting:


   There are two different groups, both counted x-stitch, basically the same
   rules apply to each.  You can choose from either:
   1) A 'Pot Luck' group, where any sort of fabric for your sampler may be
      chosen.
   2) A 'Linen/Evenweave only' group, where the name says it all, absolutely
      NO aida allowed!

   There are 9 people in each group who choose their own fabric, colour, theme
   & size, the sampler is yours to keep.  Monthly, each sampler is sent around
   the chain for each person to work a segment in the theme of each sampler.
   Segments should be kept to within about a 50-80 stitches (either way) size
   limit, less than 50 and it's hard to find a pattern, more then 80 could
   mean you'd be in a hurry to finish it within a month.  However, long &
   narrow segments i.e. 100x20 are okay.  The only extra cost to you is the
   price of airmail postage each month, please be prepared to post out of your
   own country although this may not be the case.

   Beginners as well as experienced stitchers are all welcome.  A leader will
   be appointed to send a list of themes to everyone in their group.  FULL
   instructions will be posted to each person when their group starts.

   If you wish to join please email me with:
     1) Your snail mail address
     2) A RELIABLE email address
     3) Which group you wish to join
     4) If you are prepared to be the leader of your group
   Your name will be added to the next list, this may take up to 3-4 weeks to
   fill, so please be patient.
   Every application will be acknowledged.
   Happy Stitching.....Dawn


------------------------------------------
10.2  The Spirit of Cross Stitch Festival
------------------------------------------

This four day show is aimed exclusively at counted thread stitchers.  It
travels to 4 cities in the U.S. each year.

Locations and dates for 1994 are:

   Winston-Salem, NC     March 10-13
   Buffalo, NY           June 9-12
   Des Moines, IA        September 8-11
   Sacramento, CA        October 20-23

For class registration information, send a stamped (US$.75) self addressed
envelope for each city that interests you.  Indicate on each envelope which
city's information you want.  The registration packets are sent out
approximately three months before each Festival.

The address is:
   Spirit of Cross Stitch Festival
   6000 Market Square Ct., Suite 3
   Clemmons NC  27012

   Phone: [phone]
   FAX:   [phone]

A videotape of the class projects is available from the same address for
US$6.75.

Classes run for four days, from 8 a.m. until 10 p.m.  The Merchandise Mall
(vendor show) runs for three days.  A one day pass to the Mall cost US$5 in
1993.

A Special Stitcher Pass (US$18 in 1993) gives:
   ~ Unlimited admission to the Merchandise Mall
   ~ One hour earlier admission time to the Mall
   ~ One week earlier mailing of class registration packets
   ~ A canvas tote bag

People posted _many_ positive reports to rec.crafts.textiles after attending
the 1993 Festival.


----------------------------
10.3  The Creative Festival
----------------------------

Advertised as "America's Largest Sewing-Quilting-Needleart and Craft Supply
Show and Conference", this traveling show is scheduled to be in 30 cities in
1994.  It reaches most areas of the U.S., including Hawaii and Alaska.

Produced and Managed by:

   Roth Exposition Group
   P.O. Box 9
   San Mateo CA 94401
   Phone: [phone]
   FAX:   [phone]

The Creative Art Festival is advertised in Just Cross Stitch, as well as many
quilting and sewing magazines.

It is a three day show with classes and a vendor show aimed at stitchers,
quilters and sewers.  Previous shows received good reports from attendees.

Admission is US$6.00 (in 1994) with coupons for $1 off available at many
fabric and craft stores


-----------------------------
10.4  I Love Needlework Fair
-----------------------------


This is a four day show, new in 1994.  It is aimed at stitchers, quilters,
knitters and toy makers.

The only date and location known at the time of this posting is May 19-22,
1994 at:

   MECCA Convention Center
   500 W. Kilbourn Ave.
   Milwaukee, Wisconsin

Classes run for all four days.  The Needlework Lover's Marketplace is open
Friday through Sunday.  Admission to the Marketplace is US$5.

The Fair is co-sponsored by Joan Cravens & Friends, including Zweigart
Fabrics, Stoney Creek collection, ASN Publishing, The Embroidery Studio,
Cross Stitch Sampler & Piecework magazines.

For more information, call 1-800-525-6338.


-----------------------------------------------
10.5  EGA - The Embroiderer's Guild of America
-----------------------------------------------


This non-profit organization has chapters in the United States and Canada.  It
is open to all stitchers at all skill levels.  They are an excellent source of
information and instruction for all styles of needlework.

   The Embroiderer's Guild of America
   335 West Broadway, Suite 100
   Louisville KY  40202
   Phone: [phone]


-----------------------------------------
10.6  National Counted Cross Stitch Show
-----------------------------------------


Show and competition held at Rockome Gardens in Arcola/Arthur, Illinois.
For more information, write:

   c/o Jeanne Lambeth
   Rockome Gardens
   RR 2, Box 600
   Arcola IL 61910
   Phone: [phone].

Write to them to be placed on the mailing list for next year's show.  In 1994,
the show was held in June.


==============================================================================

                          11.  Entering Competitions

==============================================================================


If you plan on entering a project in competition, the best policy is to find
out the specific rules for that competition.  But for those cases where you
don't decide to enter until the piece is well under way, it can help to keep
some commonplace rules in mind.  Below is a general list of "what judges look
for" in an award winning counted cross stitch picture.


   ~ All stitches cross in the same direction, unless some special effect is
     planned.

   ~ Even tension.  Stitches flat, but no distortion of the cloth. Make sure

     no line of light formed along a row.

   ~ Stitches not twisted.

   ~ Full coverage, but not bulky.  Airy.

   ~ No knots.

   ~ No long carry-overs.

   ~ No loose tails.

   ~ Reverse side stitches should be vertical.  (This is a subject of some
     debate.)

   ~ Clean.  No wrinkles.  No hoop marks.

   ~ Overall appearance.

   ~ Right and wrong end of the floss.  (This is _definitely_ a subject of
     debate.)

   ~ Not judged on framing.


==============================================================================

                            12.  Selling Your Work

==============================================================================


-----------------------
12.1  General Comments
-----------------------

The consensus in rec.crafts.textiles is that it is difficult to sell good
quality handmade items at a price that reflects the time spent making them.
Most stitchers view their work as a labor of love, and distribute their items
as gifts.  A few people stitch models for craft stores in exchange for a small
amount of money and/or a discount on supplies from the store.  An even smaller
number of people manage to establish themselves as artists, designing their
own patterns and displaying the models in galleries or special niche market
auctions.

Below are some extracts from postings about this topic.


From: [e-mail] (Marina Salume)...
   ...In general, there is no market for  needlework like this, unless you can
   establish yourself as an "artist", which means you'd have to design your
   own patterns and make them in very limited editions.  You'd either get a
   gallery to represent you or make things on commission.  Take a look at
   magazines like FiberArts and Ornament, they show lots of this type of work,
   altho not many people are working exclusively in cross stitch. (i've seen
   things done in millions of French knots tho, which seems similar).

   There is probably a market for reproductions of antique samplers, tho.
   Since the real antique ones sell for hundreds of dollars, if you can make
   good copies you can probably sell them in antique shops.

   Quick ornaments are sold everywhere, here you are competing with things
   made in mass quantities in the Orient by women who work for pennies a day.
   However you can probably sell these at craft shows or shops.


From: [e-mail] (Louise Vrande)...
   I tried selling cross stitch pieces--I designed them, worked them, finished
   them, and went to crafts shows (small ones) to sell them.  No one was very
   interested.  At least, not in paying for the work.  They admired it, as if
   it were a museum display.  Others said, well, I do cross stitch myself.
   Never mind they didn't have and couldn't get these designs!

   At one show I did, a "customer" pulled her younger companion away from my
   booth, saying "No, that stuff is handmade.  It's too expensive." Isn't
   handmade the point?  And, given the hours that went into producing each
   piece, it was not expensive.


From: [e-mail] (Gillian Cannon)...
   I have a friend who is a professional stitcher--she stitches both cross
   stitch and needlepoint on commission for clients.  She charges $1 per
   square inch (the client provides the materials).  Right now she is working
   on a large needlepoint canvas that's 18 count or so.  It will take her
   about 3 months to do (I don't think she will be working on it full time
   however.  She rotates her stuff so she doesn't get stale on any one.)  When
   she is done she'll get about $400, which is slave wages.

   I stitch as a labor of love--for my family and friends (and I'm finally
   gonna sit down and do something for myself--an enormous Cross Wing chart of
   wildflowers that will be about 38" x 23" on 30 count linen).  Somehow, if I
   get paid for something it all of a sudden becomes "work" instead of "fun"
   and is a pain to complete.

   Quick ornament types usually take at least several hours to complete.  If
   you can get $5 for the finished item, you will be lucky.  However, I do not
   know what your financial situation is or how you value your time.  All I
   can say is that you can make a whole lot more (and at home as well) doing
   computer input, etc.


From: [e-mail] (Mary Rita Otto)
   I created original designs for a niche market, and sold them through art
   auctions.  I designed things for techie-types, and sold them at Science
   Fiction convention art shows.  They sold very well.  I made what I consider
   to be good money -- that is, more than double the cost of the materials on
   pieces which didn't take a lot of work.  It was a ego stroke to know that
   people were willing to bid against each other to get my stuff.  On the
   other hand, I was sorry to see some of them go.  I guess art is like that.


----------------------------------
12.2  Craft Business Mailing List
----------------------------------

A craft business mailing list was created by Teri Miller early in January,
1994.  If you would like to be on the list, send email to
"[e-mail]".  To post an article, send email to
"[e-mail]" and (if appropriate) it will be forwarded
to the list.

From the article announcing the formation of the list:

   I'm hoping that the list will host discussions of crafts businesses,
   including starting one's own business, referrals of businesses that are
   especially good or interesting, pointers to more information:  basically,
   anything that could be considered a pointer to a business or info on
   starting one is great.  Do you have a business and want to post an ad?  If
   it's not excessively long or too frequently submitted, I'll forward those
   along, too.  My impression is that at least some of the respondents were
   interested in talking with people who already have businesses, and mailing
   out their ads is a good way to make them known.


==============================================================================

                        13.  Other Stitching Techniques

==============================================================================

There are many, many styles or techniques for counted thread work and
embroidery.  Most are centuries old, and have been in and out of fashion more
than once.

Any additions to this list or to the descriptions are welcome.


------------------
13.1  Assisi Work
------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mary Rita Otto)...
   Assisi Work is a form of embroidery where the background is stitched around
   an unstitched silouette design, which is outlined in backstitch to further
   define it.  One particularly lovely form employes subtle shading of the
   background threads -- to me, it looks like a sunrise backlighting the
   subject.  These designs can be particularly lovely.


----------------
13.2  Blackwork
----------------

From: [e-mail] (Mary Rita Otto)...
   I've been researching the history of Blackwork.  Actually, it dates back to
   at least the 1300's.  It was mentioned in the Canterbury Tales, in a
   description of the Miller's wife's nightcap.  While the use of black wool
   (natural, rather than dyed) on white linen is one of the traditional forms,
   red on white was also extremely popular.  Catherine of Aragon was
   responsible for bringing the darker fashions of Spain to England, and with
   them came a fashion trend for blackwork in court clothing (as opposed to
   peasant clothing like the miller's wife was wearing in the 1300's).

   Only some blackwork is reversible.  Reversible work is confined primarily
   to border patterns.  The reversible patterns were worked in double running
   stitch, sometimes overcast to smooth the lines and hide the holes between
   the stitches.  Other embroidery in the classification of blackwork are
   repeating "diaper" patterns used as filling stitches, and outlined in
   chain, split or stem stitch.  These were worked on a plain ground fabric,
   not necessarily an even weave.  Interestingly, a technique was developed
   using starched cheesecloth over the plain fabric to regulate the stitch
   length, much like the modern use of waste canvas.

From: [e-mail] (Gillian Cannon)...
   ...It was brought to England by Catherine of Aragon, I believe, and came
   into popularity through the paintings of Hans Holbein (it is also called
   "Holbein" work) and because lace could not be imported from France because
   of the war.  The blackwork gives the look of lace to a garment's sleeves,
   collar, and other areas.

--------------------------
13.3  Counted Thread Work
--------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mary Rita Otto)...
   This is the descriptive category for stitches worked over a counted number
   of threads.  It includes traditional sampler making stitches such as
   long-armed cross-stitch, Italian cross-stitch, four sided stitch, Queen
   stitch, nun's stitch, herringbone, and "countless" ;^) others.
   Cross-stitch is only one of the many counted thread stitches.  Eileen
   Bennett of The Sampler House is a leading authority on this traditional
   sampler making stitches.


------------------------
13.4  Drawn Thread Work
------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Mary Rita Otto)...
   This is a technique which is enjoying a resurgence.  It involves the
   removal of some of the threads from a section of the fabric.  One of the
   more interesting techniques is to remove the horizontal threads and to work
   twisting patterns (called leno work) in the remaining vertical threads.
   This creates a lovely lacey effect.  Linda Driscoll is a leading designer
   of Drawn Thread samplers and provides excellent instruction in the
   techniques in her publications.

   Drawn Thread Work is traditionally worked in white on white (or ivory on
   ivory) and is sometimes called "White Work".  Such monotone samplers are
   often displayed by mounting them over a piece of colored linen to highlight
   the open work areas.  Interesting effects can be achieved using color with
   the technique, though.  Needleweaving (one of the techniques) can be used
   to create, for example, a row of Christmas trees in openwork.  Gold threads
   were used in some historic pieces worked in this technique.


-----------------------
13.5  Duplicate Stitch
-----------------------

Duplicate Stitch is a technique for embroidering on knitted objects so that
the resulting design appears to have been knitted in.  It is done as a
series of V's, to match the V's in a standard stockinette weave.  While
regular cross stitch patterns may be used, it is important to remember that
the resulting design will appear squashed.

---------------------------
13.6  Hardanger Embroidery
---------------------------

Hardanger is a Scandinavian counted thread technique, performed on a special
evenweave cloth called (logically) Hardanger.  Traditionally, it is done on
a 22 count cloth with a matching color cotton thread such as Perle.  Hardanger
embroidery bears a resemblance to Drawn Thread Work, but it emphasizes box
shapes rather than long rows of stitches.


-------------------------
13.7  Pulled Thread Work
-------------------------

Pulled Thread is a very easy technique which creates complicated looking
patterns.  Probably the hardest thing for a cross stitcher to remember is to
PULL HARD.

From: [e-mail] (Mary Rita Otto)...
   Pulled Thread is one of my favorite techniques.  It is, like it says, a
   technique where the embroidered thread is pulled tightly.  This distorts
   the threads of the fabric, creating holes between the stitches.  It makes a
   nice, light, lacey effect.  I find that a border of double backstitch,
   pulled, makes a lovely accent around a stitched piece.  It is simple to
   work.  For someone who would like to experiment with this simplest of
   pulled thread techniques, I recommend the pattern leaflet from Sal-Em for
   their table linens which shows the rose design.  This was my introduction
   into the technique.  The instructions were very clear, and the stitch is
   easy to do.  I was very pleased with the results of my first effort.
   (Hey, I went on to make 4 placemats and 4 napkins, so that says something!)

   Pulled Thread is, apparently, a Danish technique.  There are a lot of
   different patterns for pulled thread, either as a border or a filling
   stitch.  It tends to have a lighter effect than either hardanger or drawn
   thread, and does not require the cutting of the fabric threads.


------------------------
13.8  Shadow Embroidery
------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Stella Nemeth)...
   ...This is both a very old form of embroidery and something that is just
   making a comeback.  It was popular in the last century and again in the
   1930s and is just beginning to make a dent in the heirloom sewing world...
   It is embroidery done on a semi-transparent fabric like organdy.  The idea
   is that you can see the threads on the back as a sort of colored pastel
   shadow.  On the front, all you can see is what looks like backstitches
   outlining the elements of the design -- usually leaves, flowers and big
   bows.  On the back the thread produces a herringbone pattern out of the
   crossing threads which almost, but not quite, fills in the elements being
   embroidered.

   Modern shadow embroidery sometimes has surface embroidery on it as well in
   the form of french knots for flower centers and bouillon roses.


-------------------
13.9  Waste Canvas
-------------------


This is not so much a different stitching technique as it is a way to do
counted cross stitch on non-evenweave fabrics.  Waste canvas is a special type
of evenweave fabric which comes in a variety of mesh sizes.  The fabric is
unusual in that its threads are held in place with starch.  The waste canvas
is used by basting it onto a non-evenweave fabric, such as the front of a
sweatshirt.  This provides a grid for doing counted cross stitch or other
counted thread stitches.  Once the stitching is complete, the waste canvas is
removed by dampening the canvas to remove the starch which binds its threads
together.  These threads are then removed one at a time, with tweezers.